Climbing Area Index / Green's Cliff / Blurry Eyes (5.10)
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| From where the approach trail brings you to the cliff, head left a few hundred feet, past the huge leftward leaning Great Arch. Look for a trail that leads you out from the cliff a bit and up to the left end. Where it brings you back to the wall, continue left, making a step up to a right facing corner where you can drop your stuff. |
Named for the fact that it was early and I was still half asleep when we put it up. The original first pitch is short, about 30 feet, up a thin crack to a ledge with a bolted anchor 5.10-. The protection starts with a couple thin wires, but gets better as you go. The more common way to start now is to work up the arete to the right (bolt), until you can pop left to the flake, then head up the hand crack formed by the disconnected, but wedged (hopefully) big flake 5.8. That takes you up to the same anchor. The second pitch is gorgeous slab climbing on super rock, with knobs and dimples with the occasional pocket or seam, with the crux overlap near the top. It is all bolt protected except for one cam placement in a slotted pocket before the overlap.
Pitch 1: The original first pitch is short, about 30 feet, up a thin crack that starts about 20 feet left of the corner, to a ledge with a bolted anchor 5.10. The protection starts with a couple thin wires, but gets better as you go. The more common way to start now is to work up the arete to the right (bolt), until you can pop left to the flake, then head up the hand crack formed by the disconnected, but wedged (hopefully) big flake 5.8. That takes you up to the same anchor. Thanks to Tom Bowker, we now have a third alternative, The Gift 5.7, that runs up the corner until you can traverse out a seam then head up the right side of the wedged flake.
Pitch 2: The second pitch is gorgeous slab climbing on super rock, with knobs and dimples with the occasional pocket or seam, with the crux overlap near the top. It is all bolt protected except for one cam placement in a slotted pocket before the overlap.
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| For the original start you will need some small wires and cams, otherwise you will need finger to hand sized gear for the first pitch. The second pitch is all bolt protected except for one finger tip sized cam (.4 grey Camalot?) in a slot pocket. Belays are bolted.
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| Two raps down the route with a single 60M |
| September 5,2010 - Dmitriy Shirokov and Mark Sprague |
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