NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 1: very minimal bugs
1 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Dickey Mountain / Resident Evil (5.10d)
Directions:  A left facing corner just past a flake of rock leaning against the cliff is The Stack.
Description: An area classic.
    Pitch 1: Start below the right side of the jutting blocks above. Face climb past 2 bolts into a chimney formed by the stacked blocks. From atop the block that forms the chimney’s left side, step right into a slanting crack then up past bolts and horizontal cracks to the final 2 bolts protecting the crux. Lower off 90ft. 8 bolts and normal rack with some large cams. 5.10d

    Variation Instead of climbing into the chimney follow a horizontal crack right to a vertical finger and hand crack that rejoins the regular route. 5.9

Gear: Standard rack + draws
Descent: Rappel

 

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