NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 1: very minimal bugs
1 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Humphrey's Ledge / Even the Rain (5.8)
Directions:  This climb is located about 240 feet to the right of the Wiessner route in a corner above a large flake leaning on a fallen tree. Just follow the trail around the cliff band, ducking under a large fallen tree and staying about 20' below the cliff. The flake is right where the trail joins the cliff and before it goes around a buttress.
Description: Delicate lay-backing and careful foot work makes this an interesting climb. The upper crack in the dihedral requires small gear. At the second bolt look right and note the large area of rock that is a lighter color. If you look down you can see one of the flakes that came off the cliff from this area.
    Pitch 1: Climb ledges to a short chimney below a large oak. Climb to a ledge above the oak and traverse to the right . Follow bolts to the crack and dihedral. Climb the dihedral to a comfortable ledge with a two bolt anchor. 80 feet (5.8)

    Pitch 2: Step slightly left and follow a line of bolts on generally clean white rock. Bring a small cam (BD C4 or equivalent) for the final move to the 2-bolt anchor. 60' (5.7)

Gear: standard rack
Descent: rappel from 2-bolt anchors. 2 ropes will get you to the ground from the top of the climb.
History:  May 2013 - Joe Perez, Al Hospers, Judy Perez

 

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