NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 1: very minimal bugs
1 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Crawford Notch - various / Bore Tide (5.10 or 10.d III)
Directions:  Park at the Willey slabs ice climbing pull off, either side of the road will due. Walk east toward Conway about 50 yards from the pull off. Look across the stream and you will see an old gravel bed that extends into the woods. You should be directly under the slabs. As you look up at the slabs the climb follows the long green streak of rock on the longest center right portion of the slabs. Follow the gravel bed into the woods for about 100 yards, trending slightly left. You should come to a large boulder ten feet in diameter. At this boulder look left and you will see a dry gravel stream bed. Follow this stream bed up to the base of the cliff. Half way up the stream bed you encounter a waterfall. Step right 50' or so and follow a light path that parallels the stream bed up to the base of the cliff. Approach time is fifty minutes to one hour. When you reach the cliff follow the base up and right about 100 yards until you are at the base of the large slabs. Bore Tide is directly straight up and you will see a corner to your left.
Description: 1100' of imaculate rock on the Mt. Webster slab opposite the Willy Slide slabs. Basically it consists of one pitch of 5.7r followed by 800 ft of 5.2 to 5.5 with either a 5.10a or 5.10d bolted 40 meter finish. It's recommended that it be climbed simu-climbed for the first 1000' to a broad ledge then finish up either variation.
    Pitch 1: 70 meters 3 bolts and a small cam or two up to a one bolt ring anchor.

    Pitch 2: 800' of simu-climbing past very widly spaced bolts and the occasional gear placement. 5.2 to 5.5

    Pitch 3: direct finish past 5 bolts on friction slabs 110' - 5.10a OR right hand finish past 7 bolts on friction slabs 110' - 5.10d

Gear: About 12 draws and small to micro cams and some medium tri-cams for the solution pockets.
Descent: Rap the route
History:  2006 - 

 

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