NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 1: very minimal bugs
1 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Frankenstein Cliff / Zion Train (A3)
Directions:  This climb ascends the cliff left of First Ascent Gully. It is the fartherest left cliff. It starts about 15-20 ft. to the right of Shadows and Light, a 1981 Al Comeau route.
Description: Paul Cormier, who did the FA, thinks that this should go free!
    Pitch 1: Start 15ft. rt. Of Shadows and Light. Make 5.5 moves to a rivet and bashie, then hook and jive to the left and pick up a vertical weakness, ending up at a small bolted stance. 100 ft.

    Pitch 2: Up and slightly left sort of by-passing the roof, then back right to a nice belay stance. 70ft

    Pitch 3: straight up in hair thin cracks, but bomber peckers and rurps to the top. 70 ft.

Gear: standard rack and aid gear
Descent: 
History:  April 20008 - Paul Cormier solo

 

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