NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
BugCON 2: some mosquitoes, possible blackflys swarming with minimal biting
2 out of a possible 5
Climbing Area Index / Whitehorse Ledge / Short Order (5.9)
Short Order
Dave Powers
Photo by NEClimbs.com
Directions:  Walk left past the slabs across the rockfall area. The climb is just left of the large corner, Mistaken Identity, that separates the slabs from the South Buttress.
Description: Mega-classic. Pitch 2's flake at the top is about as sweet as it gets! Most people scramble up the tree roots to the ledge at the start of pitch 2, not bothering with pitch 1.
    Pitch 1: Climb over a bulge to a slab. Continue up the slab to a ledge & belay at a peg in a pocket. (5.7)

    Pitch 2: Climb up and angle a little right over a short bulge. Continue up to a ledge, traverse right and step up to a bolt. Then make a long reach left to a hold. Climb past 2 more bolts and left up a ramp to a beautiful thin flake with a ring piton at the bottom. Layback the flake then continue up a short slab past the first tree to a second, more stable, pine tree belay & rappel.

Gear: Mostly a clip-up but bring a standard rack with some small gear for the flake.
Descent: Two ropes will get you back to the ground.
History:  July 7,1980 - Ed Webster, Bryan Rossin and Richard Rossin on July 7, 1980.

 

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