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I know I've asked this before, but what do YOU
do with yourself in this transitionary time of year? The question
seems to be in the air. Even my doctor asked me that question the
other day at my annual physical. Everybody's looking for suggestions
for things to do when there's no ice yet and it's too cold to climb
rock.
Personally I've been using the time to hike
and do some bouldering when it's dry enough. Exploring some of
the little crags in the
woods that I've always wondered about combines getting my exercise
and gaining information that will be useful in the Spring. Even
on days when I know there isn't going to be any ice available,
a hike up to Hermit Lake with friends is always fun. I did that
one last Friday. And of course, being able to run out and grab
a couple of warm mid-afternoon hours on the rock when the sun peeks
out is always a good thing. Daz & I went over to the Humphrey's
boulders on Monday and there were other folks there as well. Why
was I not surprised?
Of course you can be like some people I know
and simply not give up on the rock, no matter how cold & wet
it gets. There was a group at Shag the other day when it barely
got up to freezing.
At least it was sunny and they had a campfire going to warm their
toes when they were belaying. Of course there wasn't any snow on
the ground yet either. But then last winter I was hiking around
in the woods off the Kanc and walked into the Crack In The Woods.
Low and behold the trail was totally beat-out and it was apparent
that someone had been up there working on something in spite of
the cold and snow. There was a recently used fire ring and it was
clear that someone had been up there climbing rock in February.
While I've never actually seen it myself, I understand
that folks climb rock at Rumney all year 'round. Apparently on
nice days you
might see someone climbing a sport route and another person on
an ice climb 6 feet away. Now that's making the best use of the
medium! Bring your rock & ice gear. I gotta give the winter
rock climbers a lot of credit for their perseverance. Bringing
out the blowtorches to dry off the rock and rolls of plastic to
keep your shoes dry, now that's real love. Now is there any way
I can build a big freezer around Dracula so I can climb ice in
the summer? Hmmm...I wonder.
Thin Air Poll:
Several weeks ago I started a poll on NEClimbs on the topic of
what people think about the bolt chopping. I didn't really think
that people would take advantage of being able to vote repeatedly,
but that was certainly naive. So, I figured out how to make the
system such that I could limit repeat voting. I made it so that
folks would have to wait a few days in between votes. Well that
didn't work, so I made it wait 30 days and that seems to have
helped. While I don't think that the current tally on the site
is completely
accurate, I don't think it's as bad as you might think. It seems
that some significant number of folks are in favor of replacing
the bolts on the belay. I don't know if it's going to happen,
but it sure will be interesting to see if they reappear by
this Spring.
We'll start up a new poll next week.
Do You Want To Learn To Climb Ice?
The AMC Boston Chapter Mountaineering Committee will run it's
annual ice climbing instructional program over two weekends
this January.
They teach you all you need to know about the equipment and techniques
of the sport, plus you get great food, lodging, and the chance
to meet some climbing partners. Come down to the first lecture
night to take a belay test and apply for the class. For more
information see the class
website.
Dates for this year's class are:
Lecture #1 Tuesday - Dec 16
Lecture #2 Tuesday - Jan 6
Weekend #1 Jan 17/18
Weekend #2 Jan 31/Feb 1
My wife and I took this course years ago and
it was great. It's a super introduction to waterfall ice climbing
and we both highly
recommend it. In fact I think so
highly of it that I've helped out for the past 6 years.
Laura Waterman Book Signing:
In a rare appearance, Laura Waterman will at White Birch Books
in North Conway on Friday evening at 6:30 PM. She will be signing
the newly reissued "Forest
and Crag: A History of Hiking, Trail Blazing, and Adventure in the Northeast
Mountains", written by her and late husband Guy Waterman.
State-O-The-Ice:
Cold, wet, rainy, warm, cold again. Not generally the best conditions
for early
season ice, but still there IS stuff here & there. Someone has already gone
up the North End slabs and there was ice in Tucks, as recently as a few days
ago - tho not really enough to climb. Prior to the rain last nite and today,
there was definitely some stuff out there to be climbed. I heard about spots
in the 'Daks, Smugs, a few road-cuts here and there and some hidden little crags
in the woods. We had our first snow here in the Valley Tuesday night. Winter
is taking its time, but I'm sure it will be here soon enough. If we just get
some consistent cold temps and a real snowfall, and that's definitely going to
happen soon enough, I'm confident we will have a really good ice season. The
predictions for the weekend look pretty reasonable for ice forming in the higher
elevations. Hey, it might even be worth a hike into Tucks on Saturday to check
things out. <grin>
Totally Rad Stocking Stuffer:
Recently I came across what may be the absolute perfect
knife for climbers. If you're looking for something to put on your Xmas
list, or a present for your
favorite climber, this may be THE item this year. Imagine a blend of a Kershaw
knife and a carabiner, then throw in a bottle opener (how appropriate for climbers,
aye) and a philips screwdriver, and you're in business. I don't think it will
take a fall, but who cares? So, honey.. Are you listening? <grin>
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective April 24, 2024
It's all over for 2023/2024.
Huntington Ravine
OUT
Repentance
OUT
Standard Route
OUT
Dracula
OUT
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.