Amazingly enough, through all of this warmth, much of the ice hung in. That is most certainly due to the very cold December. Many things formed fairly well, and even now we had some nights that were cold enough to help rebuild the climbs that were somewhat fat. A good example is Diagonal. The wall was almost clear after the last big rain, but started building again during a cold snap right afterward. Enough that it attracted the attention of Peter Doucette and Ryan Driscoll! I was on my way home from an early gym session Tuesday morning and just noticed that there was someone on the dike! Knowing full well what was going on, I rushed home and grabbed the big camera and took a series of pictures over the next hour.
The MWV Ice Fest is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. For over 33 years it has provided a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technical clinics and privately guided climbs. Don't miss it!
Feb 5 - Feb 8, 2026 in North Conway, NH.
Our Current Review
AVALANCHE DREAMS: A Memoir of Skiing, Climbing and Life
Louis Dawson describes his life in six sections with each one representing a different era of his life. The forty-three short chapters flow smoothly and keep the reader wanting to explore one more episode at each reading.
Hip Deep -
WI 4 IV
The start is thin ice over low angle rock slab. If the ice is too thin, bypass the slab and start in the shallow snow gully and work your way to top of a rock slab to low angle ice.
The name came because the first ascent party waded for a half mile thru snow up to their hips for 1 1/2 hours from the leanto to the cliff.
When I began climbing, the rope symbolized trust. Sport climbing turned the rope into 60 meters of vague social contract. Ice and alpine routes reminded me why the rope is a sacred climbing icon; it signifies the unbreakable bond between partners.
—Johnny Blitz
Peter Doucette on the pillar with Ryan Driscoll belaying.
Diagonal, Cathedral Ledge
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 19, 2026
The ice is looking pretty good and will only get better. Temps are around freezing during the day and cold at night. Perfect for building. Barring something very unexpected, I really gotta think that Ice fest will be amazing!
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
Silas Rossi did it on 1/6... MIXED!
Standard Route
GOOD
Dracula
IN & fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
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When I first began climbing I had no idea there was such a thing as climbing literature. A few years into it, I was hanging out with all these AMC types. It seemed they were all a hundred years old and knew a lot more than me. I made a fool of my self in a conversation when I admitted to not knowing who Fred Becky was
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
