WOW today sure felt like mid-March to me. Most especially around noon when it got sunny. The roof is dripping and the snow compacting as I watch. Of course it was still a short day, not like those "so much longer at last" late March ones that portend spring. I gotta say that the unexpected warmth and the sun on my face sure felt good after a string of low double and single-digit days and nights.
The MWV Ice Fest is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. For over 33 years it has provided a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technical clinics and privately guided climbs. Don't miss it!
Feb 5 - Feb 8, 2026 in North Conway, NH.
Our Current Review
AVALANCHE DREAMS: A Memoir of Skiing, Climbing and Life
Louis Dawson describes his life in six sections with each one representing a different era of his life. The forty-three short chapters flow smoothly and keep the reader wanting to explore one more episode at each reading.
From Everest Base Camp, you can walk four hours and you're lounging on grass, drinking beer with trekkers. K2 stands absolutely on its own. The approach is hard. The base camp feels like the moon. The mountain itself looks utterly impregnable, and there's no easy way up the thing. And all this hits you between the eyes when you see it for the first time. It's like that famous Munch painting. You know the one—The Scream? Except, of course, you're the one doing the screaming.
—Jim Curran
Peter Doucette on the pillar of Diagonal.
Cathedral Ledge
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 13, 2026
Still warm, sunny and 37 at 2:15, but there is still ice! I saw a party on what looked like Repentance in the dark on Monday night at 5:30, and there was a party on Diagonal Tuesday morning.
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
Silas Rossi did it on 1/6... MIXED!
Standard Route
GOOD
Dracula
IN & fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
S U B S C R I B E to the White Mountain Report
The White Mountain Report is a weekly email newsletter that
provides you with the most up to date information about rock and ice climbing
in New England. To get it delivered to your mailbox every Thursday all you have
to do is SUBSCRIBE. It's fast, painless, and best of all it doesn't cost you
a dime!
V-thread ice anchors are an easy, secure and inexpensive rappel anchor for ice climbing. In this article I will describe how to make the anchor, how to use it, what kind of gear is needed, and how to make your own tool. Everything about v-threading is easy and they have become popular at ice crags all over the world.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
