GO PATS!!!! Starting tomorrow, Thursday, the 2026 ICE FEST WEEKEND is upon us, and that's the main reason for this early Report. Kudos to Paul, Lisa, Rick, Brady and the whole IME/IMCS crew for keeping the stoke alive. Three days of warmish daytime temps, but no rain (!), should really help. And based on the ice conditions I've seen so far, this could be one of the best.
The MWV Ice Fest is considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. For over 33 years it has provided a great opportunity for those attending to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in multiple day courses, one-day technical clinics and privately guided climbs. Don't miss it!
Feb 5 - Feb 8, 2026 in North Conway, NH.
Our Current Review
AVALANCHE DREAMS: A Memoir of Skiing, Climbing and Life
Louis Dawson describes his life in six sections with each one representing a different era of his life. The forty-three short chapters flow smoothly and keep the reader wanting to explore one more episode at each reading.
Work Of The Devil -
Other
The route follows the general line of an existing rock climb, "The Devil Made Me Dog It". It was rated M7+/Man-2 by Jim and Eric McCallister who assisted in the FA and has attempted the route himself. The M7+ is on the 'New England Mixed' scale, aka. the Freddie Wilkinson scale and the Man scale is one suggested by Doug Madara. The NEM scale is capped at M7+ while the Man scale is open ended.
Lightly hazed in blue mist, the tiny, clustered town - pale pebbles and mica flashes of light - was no more than stony shingle at the bottom of a deep pool.
—Dermot Somers
In case you weren't really believing that there is a train running!
Frankenstein trestle, Crawford Notch
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 12, 2026
There sure is a lot of climbable ice pretty much everywhere. And for the most part it's plastic, or getting that way. Except where it's in direct sun for much of the day. A few classics like Machine and Snot Rocket simply haven't come in at all, but almost all the good stuff is there to be had and in pretty much consensus shape. I would say that this is the time to jump on it folks...
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
been done
Standard Route
GOOD
Dracula
IN & fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
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