All seasonal climbing closures put in effect in Spring 2021 for NH Peregrine Falcon nest sites have been lifted. Climb on! This season, I especially want to acknowledge direct involvement by Bob Hall, Lee Hansche, Torie Kidd, and Andy Casler in management efforts at specific sites. And thanks again to all for your support of Peregrine Falcon management here in NH!
Please continue to send me updates when you encounter falcons at any of the areas where you climb. I look forward to working with you in the 2022 falcon nesting season.
Chris Martin
Senior Biologist, NH Audubon
May 20, 2021
PEREGRINE CLOSURES FROM CHRIS MARTIN:
Temporary climbing restrictions intended to benefit NH state-listed threatened Peregrine Falcons are currently in effect, and posted at the following 10 New Hampshire cliffs in 2021:
Cathedral Ledge (north end near C"Diedre") in Bartlett, NH
Eagle Cliff (south end) in Franconia, NH
Frankenstein Cliff (front/lower cliff) in Harts Location, NH
Holts Ledge (near cliff top overlook) in Lyme, NH
Kinsman Tsunami Wall in Woodstock, NH
Owls Head (The Big Wall, right of cliff center) in Benton, NH
Painted Walls in Albany, NH
Rumney Rocks (Main Cliff) in Rumney, NH
Russell Crag (Bird Murder and Alchemy) in Woodstock, NH
Woodchuck Ledge (central portion of cliff) in Albany, NH
Peregrine Falcons are also present at roughly a dozen additional NH cliffs where no closures have been posted since recreational use and risk of repeated disturbance is believed to be minimal. Climbers who encounter an aggressive falcon during any climb at a NH cliff are advised to immediately alter their climbing plan, and to report such incidents to NH Audubon or to NH Fish & Game.
All posted areas will be reopened no later than August 1, possibly sooner if conditions warrant. Please share/distribute this list to your climbing colleagues, and THANK YOU!
April 11, 2021
Peregrine Falcons are incubating eggs at the northern end of Cathedral Ledge, near the "Diedre" climbing route. 4 seasonal closure signs are posted at the base of the cliff under the nesting area, and one sign on the kiosk. Please respect these restrictions to protect this iconic bird.
Consumers should immediately stop using the recalled Beal Birdie Belay Devices and contact Liberty Mountain for a free replacement.
Incidents/Injuries:
The firm has received three reports of the user being unable to lower the climber because the hand lever became detached from the device. No injuries have been reported.
Sold At:
REI stores nationwide, online at www.rei.com, www.moosejaw.com, and www.backcountry.com, and at outdoor equipment stores and indoor rock climbing gyms nationwide from July 2019 through February 2021 for about $75.
The 2018 Peregrine closings have ben posted in the Forum.
July 14, 2017
I just received notice that the parking situation at the top of the cliff in the roundabout has been posted as 1 HOUR PARKING ONLY by the State. Phil, the Echo Lake State Park Ranger has been running off the climbers parking up there. IME, Friends Of The Ledges and others are trying to get this resolved, but in the meantime PLEASE park on the side of the road BELOW the toilet and pull fully off the road.
At this time I don't know any more about this than what you see here. However, if you see Eric Nelson or Phil, please express your displeasure - in a respectful manner!!! Thank you for your consideration.
May 25, 2017
Memorial Day Thoughts
We often think of Memorial Day in terms of a day off from work and a time for BBQ and other activities, it actually does have a deeper meaning. While you are out enjoying yourself or in between beers, take a minute to remember and give thanks for the men and women who have given their lives to provide a country that allows us to express ourselves in almost any manner that we want, at any time, without fear of reprisal. It is quite a bit different than the way things are in many other countries in the world. Just a thought...
August 8, 2016
There is a wasps nest in a crack just above the crux bolt on Old Crow at Humphrey's Ledge. They are aggressive so it would be best to avoid that climb, at least for the time being.
May 19, 2016
Black Diamond Index Ascenders: The Index Ascenders’ rivet holding the toothed cam can release, allowing the Ascender to slide on the rope or become detached from the rope, posing a risk of injury or death to climbers from a fall.
This recall involves Black Diamond 18 mm wide nylon runners that are 60 cm/24 inch or 120 cm/48 inches long that have a tape splice (two cut ends joined by masking tape). The nylon runners were sold in red, blue, gold, green, gray and purple. “CE 0333” and 2014 or 2015 are printed on the sewn-in label.
This recall involves 16 models of Black Diamond brand carabiners with manufacturing date codes between 4350 and 6018. “Black Diamond” or the Black Diamond logo is printed on the front of the carabiners. The manufacturing date code is printed on the side of the carabiners. All carabiner colors are included in the recall. They were sold individually or as part of a climbing gear set.
There will be a major race at Cannon this weekend with all the parking areas used by climbers being used by the ski area with shuttles running! This race is big enough that the lodge and most of the mountain will be closed to the public those 3 days. Here are links for more info:
Peregrines are nesting at the Summit Cliff at Rumney. The entire Summit Cliff, including Northwest Passage and Flea Surgeon, is now closed. The Asylum on the left, and The Monolith on the right are also closed!
Main Cliff remains open, but please check signs at the kiosks for any change in that status. Signs are posted as of Saturday at the kiosks in Rumney.
January 15, 2014
Our old and dear friend John Strand has turned 54 on Wednesday 1/15! All the best wishes to a great climber and all 'round cool dude!
May 27, 2013
George Hurley is giving a free slideshow on "Early Desert Climbs" at the Cook Memorial Library in Tamworth Wednesday night at 7pm.
May 2, 2013
I know I posted this in the Report. but I think it's worth mentioning separately. The TICKS are ferocious this year. I got 3 on me when I was climbing 3 Birches. Then, when I came in from walking the dog I found one in my hair, and I wasn't even walking in the woods, just on my neighborhood street!!! Be sure to do a tick-check if you're outside at all, and especially if you are in the woods or have animals.
This is the worst season I've seen in some years so you might want to pass this around.
January 26, 2013
No Parking on State Roads During Maintenance Operations
The "not-quite-a-pull-off" under Shoestring Gully is a poor choice nowadays. We strongly suggest using the lot back near the bridge on the opposite side of the road across from the descent, and then
hiking around the corner to access the route as usual. Some cars have been towed this year! Please read the DOT announcement.
We've been in a Very High Fire Danger alert for some time now. There have been several local fires and things are incredibly flammable. PLEASE DO NOT have any open fires anywhere in the woods and DO NOT discard cigarets either from your car or in the woods.
March 13, 2012
NOTE: As of 3/13/2012 due to insurance concerns the owner of the Band-M Cliff has decided to close the area to climbing. There is work being done to try and resolve the issue, but for the time being no climbing is permitted. PLEASE DO NOT climb there, as you will only exacerbate the issue if you go against his wishes.
January 30, 2012
International Mountain Climbing School's 19th Annual
Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival (aka The Ice Fest)
Feb. 3rd-5th, 2012
The Ice Fest is this weekend and it's TIME TO CLIMB! Come learn to ice climb, or better your skills! Check out what awesome clinics you can sign up for below with our top notch guides!
The Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival is one of the premier climbing events in the country. Join us as we celebrate the adventure, the fun, and the camaraderie of ice climbing and winter mountaineering, here in one of the finest waterfall ice climbing destinations in North America. This year we are also offering an AIARE Level I Avalanche Course.
Call IMCS at: 603-356-7064
Joss Rock Climbing Cam Units Recalled by Sierra Trading Post Due to a Fall Hazard; Sold Exclusively by Sierra Trading Post. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with Sierra Trading Post, of Cheyenne, Wy. and Cassin Sri, of Italy announced a voluntary recall of the Joss rock climbing cam. About 1,280 have been sold.
The recalled cams can fail unexpectedly after being set, posing a fall hazard. One incident reported in Europe. No deaths or injuries reported in the U.S.
Joss Cams come in eight sizes and each Cam is marked with the size (.5 to 4). The sling on the end features solid horizontal blocks of color (yellow, orange, purple, red, green and blue) indicating size. The "Cassin" logo is also printed on a tag attached to the sling. The Sierra Trading Post item numbers associated with this recall are #69277 and #69278. These numbers can be found on the original packaging label or order invoice. Consumers should stop using the product and return it to Sierra Trading Post for a full refund including shipping.
Sold at: Sierra Trading Post nationwide from August 2003 through March 2006 for $3 to $32.
Consumer Contact: For additional information contact Sierra Trading Post at (800) 713-4534 between 5 a.m. to 10 p.m. MT Monday through Friday, or email the company at customerservice@sierratradingpost.com
White Mountain National Forest Closing
With Hurricane Irene expected to affect the Mid-Atlantic and New England this weekend, we'd like to share some important safety messaging from both the AMC and the U.S. Forest Service (U.S.F.S.).
Due to the threat of extreme weather associated with Hurricane Irene, the White Mountain National Forest will be closed, effective 6 p.m., Saturday August 27, 2011, through midnight, Monday, August 29, 2011.
Current National Weather Service projections call for the weather event to reach New Hampshire on Sunday, August 28, 2011. This closure is to ensure public safety and effective emergency operations. The closure includes all trails, campgrounds, developed sites, huts, shelters, and ski areas.
All AMC Facilities will also be closed for the duration!
PETZL GRI GRI2 RECALL:
Petzl has discovered that exerting excessive force on the fully extended handle of the GRIGRI 2 can cause internal damage, such that the GRIGRI 2 handle may become stuck in the open position. When the handle is stuck in the position the assisted braking function is disabled. A damaged GRIGRI 2 in this configuration will function similarly to a manual belay device (e.g. tube-style device). When using a damaged GRIGRI 2 with the handle stuck in the open position, failure to control the braking side of the rope will dramatically increase the risk of an uncontrolled descent, possibly resulting in injury or death. A GRIGRI 2 with a damaged handle must be immediately retired from service. As of June 20, 2011, seven damaged GRIGRI 2 units have been returned to Petzl through our worldwide distribution network. Petzl has no knowledge of any accidents resulting from a damaged GRIGRI 2 handle.
Because the safety of our users is our primary concern, as a precautionary measure Petzl has decided to take the following actions:
* Ask users to immediately stop using all GRIGRI 2's with the first five digits of the serial number between 10326 and 11136.
* Recall all affected GRIGRI 2's and replace with new, revised versions.
* Petzl will pay for all shipping costs to complete this replacement.
* Increase the mechanical strength of the handle on all GRIGRI 2's from serial number 11137 onward.
* Begin shipping replacement GRIGRI 2's immediately. Users will receive replacements in the same order they return their old units to Petzl.
If you have a GRIGRI 2 (D14 2O, D14 2G, D14 2B) with the first five digits of the serial number between 10326 and 11136, stop use immediately and contact Petzl America to initiate an exchange. Contact Petzl America in one of two ways:
- By phone: 1 (800) 932-2978 (toll free)
- By email: grigri2recall@petzl.com
Petzl will pay all shipping costs associated with this exchange
Memorial Day Thoughts...
Although most of us think of Memorial Day as a day off from work and a time for BBQ and other activities, it actually does have a deeper meaning. While you are out enjoying yourself or in between beers, take a minute to remember and give thanks for the men and women who have given their lives to provide a country that allows us to express ourselves in almost any manner that we want, at any time, without fear of reprisal. It is quite a bit different than the way things are in many other countries in the world. just a thought…
April 30, 2011
Photon Climbing Carabiners and Quickdraws Recalled Due to Risk of Injury
The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with CAMP USA Inc., of Broomfield, Colo., announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using the Photon carabiners, Photon and Mach Express quickdraws immediately as the carabiner gate may open under a heavy load, posing a risk of serious injury or death if the climber falls.
Units: About 15,500
Importer: CAMP USA Inc., of Broomfield, Colo.
Description: The Photon model carabiners are used by climbers as connectors and are sold individually or as components of the Photon Express and Mach Express quickdraw used as extenders to anchor a climber. The carabiners were sold in a variety of colors including green, yellow, silver and brown. The quickdraws use a white or black fabric strap with green, yellow or gray stitching and Photon carabiners attached at each end.
Sold at: Outdoor retail stores nationwide from February 2011 through March 2011 for between $8 and $12.
Remedy: Consumers should stop using the recalled carabiners and quickdraws sold with carabiners immediately and contact CAMP USA to return the recalled products for a full refund.
Consumer Contact: For additional information, contact CAMP USA Inc. toll-free at (877) 421-2267 between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. MT Monday through Friday, or visit the firm's website at www.camp-usa.com
Believe it or not we've finally jumped into the 21st century and gotten ourselves a FACEBOOK page. If you are into the Social Media thing, check us out.
A VERY HAPPY THANKSGIVING wish to everyone... May you all have a truly wonderful and joy filled day.
October 26, 2010
The NEClimbs FORUM is back up and running. All of the threads and messages from the original Forum are still there AND it is the latest and greatest version of the software, BIG kudos to Jay Farrell for his help getting us back up and on line.
April 8, 2010
Hey Folks... come out & see a great jam band Liquid Flight Suit (a.k.a. In House) at the Lucky Dog Tavern on Main Street in Plymouth. It's this Friday night 10-1. Liquid Flight Suit is: Randy Roos - Guitar, Jimmy Alba - Guitar, Al Hospers - Bass, Jared Steer - Drums
RUMNEY ALERT: In March, 2010, there was a massive rockfall at Main Cliff. It probably originated above Iron Man, Gold Digger, or Rock du Jours. Be extremely careful when hanging out at the base near these routes. This area is very unstable. The possibility of another rockfall appears significant. Please consider alternate cliffs until this area stabilizes.
February 21, 2010
The Flatbread Company, located in the Eastern Slope Inn, North Conway is holding a benefit night for Mountain Rescue Service on Thursday, February 25 from 4pm - 9pm. ( www.mountainrescueservice.org ) A percentage of the profits will go to MRS. Steve Cooney and Co. will provide live music!! Please come out and support MRS.
Happy Thanksgiving - At this time of year I always take a moment to pause and reflect on my blessings and the many reasons I have to be thankful. I am especially grateful to you for your support as I celebrate the 10th year of The White Mountain Report. Have a safe and happy holiday and Happy Thanksgiving from my family to yours!
October 13, 2009
WebCam back in operation... Thanks to Canon for the repair & support.
August 28, 2009
Local NH climber and White Mountains guidebook author Ed Webster will be presenting a new slide show lecture at IME this coming weekend, combining images and stories about two of his best known new routes. Ed’s landmark first ascent of the world-famous rock climb Super Crack (5.10) in Canyonlands in Utah in 1976, plus his 1988 pioneering effort, without oxygen bottles, Sherpas assistance or radios, up Mt. Everest’s most difficult and remote side, the East or Kangshung Face in Tibet.
Super Crack was climbed by Earl Wiggins, Ed Webster and Bryan Becker in November 1976. It was the first crack climb ever scaled up the now world-famous red sandstone cliffs of Indian Creek Canyon near Moab, Utah. In 1976, the route was led and protected with just a rack of hexentrics and stoppers—spring-loaded camming devices were not invented until 1979 when Ray Jardine introduced Friends. Both Bryan Becker and Jimmie Dunn (who actually discovered Super Crack) lived and climbed in North Conway in the mid-1970s, as did Ed. A new film, Luxury Liner, the First Ascent of Super Crack (2009) weaves together the story of the fabled 1976 first ascent using the actual super-8mm footage shot that day, with recent filmed interviews and Ed’s repeat ascent of Super Crack during a 2008 reunion climb.
There will be a memorial service for Rand McNally on Thursday at 3:30 PM. Interested folks can meet at the kiosk at Cathedral Ledge and folks can hike to the top where there will be a celebration of his life.
January 30, 2009
Tony Sarno Blues Band is in Concord TONIGHT, Jan 30, at 8:30 at Makris Lobster & Steak House on Sheep Davis Road.
All the best wishes to you, your families and significant others on this most wonderful holiday season. May 2009 be all that you wish it to be.
Al, Alyssa & Lewis Hospers
November 4, 2008
According to the United States Constitution, presidential elections must be held once every four years. This process of electing a President and Vice-President begins long before Election Day, and in this particular cycle has lasted almost 2 years! Massive amounts of energy and money has been expended to inform potential voters abut the candidates, culminating on this one day. While every election is important, many (myself included) believe that this particular election is perhaps the most important one in generations. I also believe that it is each individuals right as well as responsibility to participate in this process.
Voting is how each of us makes our voice heard. Only you can silence yourself! Get out and VOTE NOW!
Two types of climbing ropes have been included in this recall, the Maxim Apogee 9.1mm and Maxim Pinnacle 9.5mm. The Maxim Apogee 9.1mm is a 48 carrier climbing rope. The colors are yellow and black, and red and yellow. The model numbers are 3411-91 and 3415-91, with date codes 060801 thru 080601. The UPC codes are: 75396312299, 75396312298, 75396312301, and 75396312300. The Maxim Pinnacle 9.5mm is a blue 48 carrier climbing rope. The Model number is 3403-95, with date codes 070201 thru 080601. The UPC codes are 75396312292 and 75396312293. The date codes and the UPC codes are on the original packaging.
Bear and the Honeydrippers Blues Band is playing on Saturday Feb 9th at the Wildcat Tavern in Jackson from 8:30 - closing. This is a classic blues band, fronted by a great harp player and singer from Martha's Vinyard. If you like to dance and party, don't miss this superb evening of blues. $2 cover charge. Band members include Bear (harp & vocals), Al Hospers (bass), Ethan Turley (guitar) and Jared Steer (drums).
This coming Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday is the 15th annual Mount Washington Ice Festival. The MWV Ice Festival is one of the premier climbing events in the country. Join us and celebrate the adventure, the fun, and the comradery of ice climbing and winter mountaineering, here in one of the finest waterfall ice climbing destinations in North America.
Art Show with Slideshow by Mark Synnott is coming to the Salyards Center for
the Arts on November 9. Proceeds from the event, featuring artwork and
literature with climbing themes, will benefit Kismet Rock Foundation and the
newly renovated Salyards Center for the Arts.
Not much more to say... The site was down for 24 hours due to database corruption due to a server issue. I had to go through and run repair on each table in the site database. Hopefully this won't happen again, but who knows. These are, after all, computers!
Al Hospers
December 18, 2006
Congrats to New England climber Will Mayo who won the "difficulty competition" at the Canmore Ice Festival last weekend He defeated Ines Papert, Jeff Marshall, Maxime Turgeon, and Rob Owens (among many others). Mayo was the only competitor to complete the final route. In addition he finished second in the speed comp.
Liberty Mountain Recalls Climbing Harnesses:
The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with Liberty Mountain announced a voluntary recall of the Edelweiss Challenge Climbing Harnesses. Consumers should stop using the harness immediately unless otherwise instructed.
Name of Product: Edelweiss Challenge Climbing Harnesses
Units: About 5,900
Distributor: Liberty Mountain, of Salt Lake City, Utah
Hazard: The buckles on the harness' leg loops could fail, posing a fall hazard for climbers.
Incidents/Injuries: Liberty Mountain has received five reports of the
leg buckle failing. No injuries have been reported.
Description: The sit harnesses are worn around climber's waist and legs
and attach to climbing ropes to protect climbers from falling. The
harnesses have three buckles including one on the waist belt and one on
each leg loop. "Edelweiss" is printed on the waist belt. Only harnesses
using the para buckle system are included in this recall. Para buckle
harnesses have a single bar installed in the center of each of the three
buckles.
Sold at: Climbing equipment retailers, Liberty Mountain's catalog, and by various Web retailers from January 2005 through September 2006 for about $47.
Remedy: Consumers should immediately stop using the recalled harnesses
and contact Liberty Mountain for instructions on returning the harnesses
including a return authorization number. Liberty Mountain will provide a
free inspection and free repair. Send your harness for repair to:
Liberty Mountain, 4375 West 1980 South, Salt Lake City, Utah 84104.
Consumer Contact: For more information, contact Liberty Mountain at
(800) 366-2666 from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. MT Monday through Friday, by fax at
(801) 954-0766, by e-mail at info@libertymountain.com, or visit the
firm's Web site at www.libertymountain.com
To see this recall on CPSC's web site, including pictures of the
recalled product, please go to:
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml07/07049.html
Happy Thanksgiving to all. How let's hope for the snow and ice to come.
October 18, 2006
Petzl America Recalls Climbing Equipment Due to Fall Hazard
WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in
cooperation with Petzl America, today announced a voluntary
recall of M34 BL Am'D Ball-Lock and M36 BL William Ball Lock carabiners. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed.
Name of Product: M34 BL Am'D Ball-Lock and M36 BL William Ball carabiners
Units: About 8,000
Importer/Distributor: Petzl America, of Clearfield, Utah
Hazard: These carabiners have a green button that acts as a safety
mechanism to prevent unlocking. The recalled carabiners can unlock
unexpectedly without pressing the green button, posing a fall hazard.
Incidents/Injuries: None reported.
Description: The recall involves the M34 BL Am'D Ball-Lock and M36 BL William Ball Lock carabiners with metal locking sleeves. Carabiners with batch number between 06076 and 06178 are included in the recall. The batch number is engraved on the spine of the carabiner. The recall does not include Ball Lock carabiners having a plastic locking sleeve.
Sold at: Petzl dealers nationwide from March 2006 through July 2006 for about $13 for the Am'D model and about $17 for the William model.
Manufactured in: United States
Remedy: Consumers should stop using the recalled carabiners immediately, and contact Petzl America to have their carabiners inspected and to receive a free replacement, if necessary.
Consumer Contact: For more information, consumers can contact Petzl America at (877) 807-3805 between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. MT Monday through Friday, or log on to the firm's Web site at www.petzl.com
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
