NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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December 18, 2003

Hi Folks,

MORE RAIN? Can you believe it? I almost can't believe it myself. Wednesday's rain event dropped almost 3 1/4 inches of rain here in North Conway. This month alone we've already had well over 6 inches. While not a record, it's pretty darn close. I haven't seen anything like it in the 6 years I've been up here. The south side of West Side Road was closed for several hours this morning due to the Saco flooding, and the north side at the First Bridge near town was even closed for a while.

I was up at Lake Willoughby on Tuesday. We couldn't have picked a better day to climb: no wind, temps just at freezing, and totally bluebird skies. All in all a super day. Amazingly enough we were the only people at the cliff the entire day. We decided to do 20 Below Zero and had to pound through knee and waist deep snow to get up to the climb. Well at least it got us warmed up! <grin> We got a late start so it was running water over Dave on first pitch. He belayed a little to the right, and it turned out to be in a waterfall. I took the second pitch and definitely got rained on as well. Still it was a near-perfect day. Afterward we plowed across to the Tablets. They were in fat and even Crazy Diamond was in good shape! A ride up the road showed that the bottom of the Gentleman and Promenade were thin. Overall there is plenty of ice to be found up there and I would say that this last rain hasn't killed it off all that much.

Here are a couple of pictures from Willoughby:

Mt. Pisgah from the South End
Dave Powers on 20 Below Zero
2nd pitch of 20 Below Zero
Crazy Diamond
Center Tablet
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective November 26, 2026
The past 3 warm days, Tuesday upper 60's in Crawford Notch, has really decimated the ice. Almost everything has come down on Cathedral Ledge, with even the top of Goofers gone! I have been hearing lots of crashing during the day and at night. EVEN tho my house is closed up! The right side of Whitehorse has also sloughed. I was riding my in Crawford Notch Tuesday afternoon and heard big crashes from the Amphitheater. It's going to get cold again, but the climbs that are gone will. likely not form again.
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route possible Click to see route picture.
Dracula possible Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE



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Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


One thing to remember on the Eiger, never look up, or you may need a plastic surgeon.
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