NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 11:59p on 07/04/22 - Temperature: 56.9 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 56.9 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.982 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 51 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
The ACCESS Fund, Protect America's ClimbingNorthEast MountaineeringMooney Mountain GuidesEquinox Guiding Service LLCthe American Alpine Club
Like reading the White Mountain Report every week? Why not get it delivered to your e-mailbox every Thursday? All you have to do is subscribe. It's fast, painless, and best of all it doesn't cost you a dime!

February 12, 2004

Hi Folks,

As eventful as it was last week, it was very uneventful this, and we all are really happy about that. Except for 2 smallish rounds of snow and some nice warmer temps, things have almost too quiet. Not that I have a real problem with that, you understand. -grin- Sometimes it's nice just be able to lay back and not fight things so hard for a change.

When I rode up to take my Report pictures last Thursday I noticed that Snot Rocket, the big drip in the trestle cut at the top of Crawford Notch, looked pretty good. I called around trying to get someone to go up there with me, and Brad White from IMCS bit. While I've noticed the climb for years, this time it looked in darn good condition. I was very surprised that the guidebook indicated it hadn't been done before '98. When I mentioned that to my neighbor Jim Ansara, he said that he and Mark Richie had done it about 10 years earlier. Why am I not surprised? (It also states that the grade is 3-4, but more on that later.) We decided to go bag it on Saturday morning so we got a late start and were up there at about 10 AM. It had snowed that nite and we broke through a crusty cover on about 6-8 inches of new white stuff. We were both somewhat surprised that no one had been up there earlier in the day.

Since I hadn't done it before, I got the sharp end of this rope. I'd originally decided to go up high on the inside corner and left of the pillar, and then swing around and onto what looked like a ramp/curtain on the right. Of course the ice wasn't in as perfect a shape as I had hoped, and it was a bit more delicate than I'd planned, so I decided to swing around a bit lower. This was one of those times when having the leashless tools was really nice. I was able to get a good stick with my right hand on the left side of the pillar, swap hands on that tool, and then get another good stick out right in the curtain. Moving up delicately I got onto the totally detached curtain, and got to a stance and ran in a screw. This was classic stuff for leashless climbing. 20' later I belayed at the base of the upper pillars off some small trees and brought Brad up. Others have done this whole climb in a single pitch, but I didn't want to be so far away from my belayer.

With Brad planted safely behind the pillars and to the left, I headed up. The start was really nice, vertical but with nice stemming between the two. However, the ice above was fractured and brittle. I spent a lot of time cleaning off the crap so I could get good sticks. In about 40' I was only able to find placements for 2 screws! I was sure smiling when I was able to sling a small tree about 20' from the top. I spoke with a friend who had apparently done it the day before, and he also said that the gear at the top was not as good as he liked, but that the climbing was great.
If you haven't done this climb yet, you might want to jump on it. Both Brad and I feel it's in 4+ or 5- shape. Here are a few pictures, but believe me when I say that it's quite a bit steeper than it looks!

Snot Rocket from the road
# 2

Memorable Quote for the Week:
This one from a second who was following the right side of Dracula for the first time -

"Wow, this is steeper and harder than I thought!"

Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival 2004

International Mountain Equipment (IME) and International Mountain Climbing School (IMCS) are delighted to organize and host the Eleventh Annual Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival - February 19-22, 2004. Since its inception this event is eagerly anticipated by ice climbers in the eastern United States and considered one of the premier climbing events in the country. A celebration of ice climbing & mountaineering and the people that make it a part of their lives, the Ice Festival provides a superb opportunity to network, socialize, try new gear and participate in technical clinics and private climbs. The Mt. Washington Valley is one of the finest waterfall ice climbing destinations in North America.

Each year we offer a variety of skills-based clinics and guided climbs at all skill levels and ability. After each day's climbing we offer a series of exciting slide shows presented by accomplished climbers and guides from the New England area and around the country. Clinics and private climbs are filling up, so please call us to check on availability. Tell us what you want to accomplish by climbing with us and we'll make sure we find the right clinic and the right guide.

603-356-7064 - -

Another New Hard Route Goes Up, or is it Down:
"Idiot Sans Savant" (30M, M8) - Chris Thomas, Tom Yandon and Will Mayo climbed the route on January 29, 2004. Will took almost 2 hours to onsight it, placing traditional gear.

Will says "This is definitely one worth repeating. Fortunately, it's
probably about two full grades easier than 'The Fecalator'."

Directions - Park at the pullout for Moss Cliff, the pullout where one parks to use the cable to cross the Ausable River (i.e., the approach to Notched In Stone, etc). Cross the road and wander through the trees to a talus slope that is followed leftwards up to the rock, around a buttress, and into a steep gully that angles up rightwards. About midway up the gully hangs the dagger. (At the top of the gully is a nice WI4 that we climbed.) The approach takes about 30-40 minutes.

Dagger Top
Dagger Middle
Dagger Bottom

Yes, it takes 3 images to see the whole climb.

RPI Bouldering Comp:
The Outing Club at Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute will be holding its 2nd Annual Bouldering Comp at Electric City Rock Gym in Schenectady, NY on February 28, 2004. This competition is open to all college students. There will be beginner, intermediate, and advanced divisions for both men and women. The entrance fee is $3 and registration is from 10-11am.

For more information, please visit the web site or contact Tim. NOTE: You must be a college student or college-age in order to compete."

International Mountain Equipment S A L E

Looking for a SALE? Well this just might be the ONE. IME is making it easy for you to get into new threads, new boots and new skis BEFORE the winter is over. Here's the deal:

25% off all clothing - Cloudveil, Mountain Hardware, Patagonia, Marmot, Mammut and more

25% off all skis

Now THIS is THE REAL DEAL! Sale starts Friday (Feb 13) and ends Sunday (Feb 22). So, get down there and check it out. You simply won't find a better deal on the stuff that you NEED.

International Mountain Equipment
Main Street
North Conway, NH

Cautionary Tale:
I suppose you could consider this a prologue to the State-O-The-Ice... Remember the episode at the hanging Garden a few weeks ago? Well, when it is as cold as it has been, the quality of the ice becomes substantially harder and even more brittle than you might think. Of course that means that it is really fragile, even the really big stuff. Widows Walk at Frankenstein has finally touched down. This is one of those things that many people wait anxiously for every year, and it doesn't always happen. Well this year, there also was a drip to the right that didn't quite touch, but looked pretty reasonable. Several of the locals have been eyeing it for the past week or so and drooling a bit. So on Saturday, when it was really cold and there was almost no one out climbing, a couple of parties decided to have a look. One went up to Widow's and decided it wasn't for them, and then checked out the big column just to the right of Cave Route. While messing with it, it cracked across! They immediately decided it wasn't for them. A second party rapped down over the right hand drip, looking it over closely. Then the leader went up behind it and tapped on it prior to launching up. The entire drip cracked off near the top, and toppled to the ground. You can see the place where it was in this week's pictures. Fortunately the belayer was out of the way and very fortunately the huge piece of ice fell outward, and not in. Hmmm... Word to the wise!

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

If you don't let go, you can't fall off !
Jerry Moffat
NEClimbs on Facebook
NEClimbs on Facebook
RSS Reader Feed
RSS Feed for NEClimbs, the New England rock and ice climbing resource
Mount Washington Valley Climbers Cooperative
Friends Of The Ledges
Savage Mountain Gear
International Mountain Climbing School
International Mountain Equipment
Sponsors & Donors
View Current List