NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 10:30a on 07/04/22 - Temperature: 71.5 °F - Wind speed: 2.0 mph - Wind chill: 71.5 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.949 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 13 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
Mooney Mountain GuidesSavage Mountain GearNorthEast MountaineeringMount Washington Valley Climbers CooperativeInternational Mountain Equipment
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April 22, 2004

Hi Folks,

Every year there are milestones in our lives. Some are ones you do, like sending that crack you've been working on, riding that hill you've always wanted to get up, or marrying the person of your dreams. Others are ones that happen to you, like getting a year older or noticing that you actually do weigh 10 pounds more than you did in college.

We've just recently gone through three of our annual milestones. One was the first time of the season that we grill and eat out on the deck. That took place on Tuesday and was definitely early this year. Usually we shovel the snow off the deck on Easter Sunday to have tea out there, but this year there was none to shovel. Tuesday was actually 85 degrees at 6 pm so how could we resist? It felt more like July, than mid-April.

The second was seeing the guys out working in the Schartner Strawberry field on West Side Road. Once they are out there working I can almost taste the fresh strawberries that we start getting in late June. That and the sweet-corn from the Lucy Farms stand are two of the really special things of summer for me.

The other, not nearly as nice unfortunately, was the first tick. I went climbing on Cathedral Ledge on Tuesday and found one on my belly that evening. YUCK! I checked the dog over & found 2 on him as well. I've spoken with friends who have been out at places like Woodchuck lately and they have said that there were lots of ticks as well as mosquitoes out there. Unless we get a cold snap to kill off the first crop, it looks like it's going to be an early season for the bugs. Hopefully the black flies will hold off just a bit longer. Time to throw the bug dope into the packs. I've put the Instant Bug report up on NEClimbs so you can check it for yourself.

Pins Once Again:
I was very disappointed to hear that someone had stolen two sets of pins from Upper Refuse a few weeks ago - the ones at the belay for Black Lung, and the ones at the very top below the trees. Then I went ballistic when I found out on top of that, the pin in the corner on the first pitch of Fun House was also gone. Worse than the ones on Upper Refuse, that one had been broken off, leaving the stub in the crack! It's hard to figure what someone is thinking about when they do something like this. Theft, ethical statements, whatever... Any way you cut it, it's a really asinine thing to do.

Thanks to an unnamed source who actually knows the perpetrator, I was actually able to get back three of the 6 pins that had been removed. Two were still usable as they were newly replaced last year after a similar episode took place. I went over to IMCS and spoke with Brad about it and picked up an assortment of pins to use to replace them. The local MRS helps out with the cost of the hardware. Tuesday morning friend and local climber Dave Lottman and I met and went out to deal with the vandalism.

I was unable to get the body of the old pin on Fun House out of the crack, but I did place a new one directly below it, so the clip will be identical. The belay on Black Lung took some fiddling to replace as I didn't have an exact replacement for one of the original angles. Fortunately I was able to replace all 3 of the pins on the belay at the top, tho not in quite exactly the same holes. In general I think that things are OK. I totally wailed on the pins with the hammer so I feel good about them. There is a smallpicture of the Fun House pin on the Home page, but here are a couple more:

New pin & stub on Fun House
Looking for the right pin for Upper Refuse

All that said... Someone pointed out to me that by placing these pins and acknowledging that I did it, I potentially leave myself open for liability if someone has a problem with them. SHEESH!!!! OK, given the litigious nature of this society, I feel compelled to do the following:


There, now that's out of the way & I feel better. <wry grin> Enjoy...

N e w   E n g l a n d   B o u l d e r i n g
Tim Kemple's HOT new guidebook

The long-awaited guidebook for bouldering in New England is finally out. This is the only comprehensive bouldering guide covering New England's best areas. Written by renowned climber and action photographer Tim Kemple, New England Bouldering has the ALL the beta on all the problems at Lincoln Woods, Pawtuckaway and Blair Woods, Hammond Pond, Rumney, Smugglers' Notch, Western Mass, and McKenzie Pond. Collaborator Pete Ward illuminates each area with insightful and humorous historical sections and scores of Tim's killer action photographs will pump you up to get out and climb!

Here's some excerpts from an interview with Tim we did recently about the book and what's he's been up to...

NEC - So how long have you been working on this guide?

TK - I had a head start because I had already done a Pawtuckaway Bouldering guide. So it was quick to update that with Blair Woods and other new problems. All told it took 2 months of me dragging my feet and 6 months of Dave (Pegg the publisher) kicking me in the butt every morning .

NEC - Have you done or attempted all these routes yourself?

TK - I think this might be a rarity, but I have done all but a handful of problems in the guide and attempted them all.

You can read more from Tim here.

New England Bouldering is NOW AVAILABLE. If you want to be the first to get yours CLICK HERE. You can see lots more pictures, a sample from the book and read the full interview with Tim. Remember, if you purchase the book through us you support the White Mountain Report and, and believe me - we sincerely appreciate your support.

Touching The Void:
I finally saw this movie last Friday. If you haven't seen it already, I strongly urge you to do so. It is hands down the best climbing film I have ever seen. It doesn't get a lot more real than this.

Weather Note:
The weather up here has been absolutely amazing for the past 10 days. The weather pundits have been saying rain & storm & cold fronts and the like. All I can say is that if you have been listening to them & not coming North to climb, you've been missing out! In fact I wish we would get some rain so we don't have a drought this summer.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Don't fall now or we'll both go.
Layton Kor
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