November 25, 2004

Hi Folks,

As climbers it may be worth remembering that we are truly fortunate to live in an society where we are able to indulge our passion for our favorite activity. Altho we tend to consider all the things we are thankful for only when sitting down at a sumptuous dinner, giving thanks should not be limited to a single time of year. It is well worth considering every time you are out on the crag as there are few activities in life as worthy of thanks as climbing.

Happy Thanksgiving to you all...

Solution To Overcrowding:
It seems that there is less ice and more people wanting to get on it these days. With the scientific community providing proof positive of the reality of global warming, what's a New England ice climber to do? That is if they don't want to move further and further north! Vermont insurance agent and prolific climber Will Mayo may have the answer we've all been looking for...

The question everybody wants to ask is: "What's going on in the wide world of Northeast ice climbing so far this season?"

Well, let me tell you. The number of ice venues has been reduced due to our (now official) climate shift to subcoastal rainforest. The whole of Northeast ice is now represented exclusively on Mt. Washington and Cannon Mtn. Since the numbers of climbers has not reduced proportionally with the reduced number of formed routes, we have some congestion issues.

Problem? Not anymore! Enter: The Night Shift! Last night between 1 AM and 3 AM I climbed the Black Dike by headlamp in 1hr 58 minutes car-to-car. Consequently, the powers-that-be of Northeast ice climbing (read: me and my multiple personalities) were inspired to hold an emergency decision-making session before dawn on the shores of Echo Lake in Franconia Notch. The result is a complete re-vamping of the ice climbing shift schedules at Cannon Mtn. The first shift now begins promptly at 1:01am. Shifts have been reduced to two hours in duration and run round the clock, tee times are afforded at the sign-in box, and the line forms at the base of the routes. A ranger will be patrolling the route in a flagged golf cart to ensure promptness and that proper etiquette is otherwise observed. Rappelling is permissible only for those climbing both routes in one shift. And, as always, please replace all divots, repair all pick marks and let faster parties play through.

As you now know, we now have 12 shifts available per day on the Dike/Fafnir (a three-fold increase), each beginning at the top of each odd-numbered hour. We have more limited ice now people, so get your jollies and get off the routes, please. With a little cooperation and creativity, there's more than enough ice to go around.

Ice Ammunition:
For the past couple of years I see ice climbers virtually studded with sharp shiny gear, looking for all the world like a out of water sea urchin. At last year's Ice Festival I took the time to observe some of the real pros and was often surprised at the paucity of their racks. It interesting, so I asked a variety of high-test ice climbers what they would take on a multi-pitch vertical ice route, grade 4 or above. Here's the result...

Kim Reynolds - founder of Chicks With Picks:
1 - 22 cm (for the anchor), 6 - 16 cm (three BD Express and three Grivel) and 2 - 13 cm

Jon Sykes - Author of Secrets Of The Notch and prolific New England climber.
6 assorted screws total. "Any more is unnecessary."

Will Gadd - mixed climbing maven and author of Ice And Mixed Climbing:
Personally, I'd take six screws -- three or four for the pitch, and two or three for the belay. If I were suggesting a rack for "most" climbers I'd suggest ten or twelve screws with half being "longish", one long one for the V-Thread, and half being shorter (10-17cm).

Barry Blanchard - famous Canadian ice climber and mountaineer:
Half dozen screws, mostly 13 cm or longer plus some rock gear.

Steve House - one of America's premier alpine climbers:
6 or 8 screws, mostly longer ones.

Of course these are the elite climbers and your milage will vary, but I thought that it was interesting what they carried. Hope you think so too.

AMC "Introduction To Ice" Climbing Program:
The AMC Boston Chapter Mountaineering Committee is proud to announce the
2004/5 Ice Climbing Program. Please check their web site at
http://www.amcboston.org/mountaineering/2instruction.html for the dates and details. I've been helping out with this course for 8 years and can attest that it's very well done. The information is up to date and well presented and the people running it are competent and very well motivated.

Instant Ice Report:
The ice hasn't built much if any over the past week and in some places things have even gotten worse. We need snow and cold weather, neither of which we are likely to get in the next several days. Better get out the rock gear for the weekend. A few places like Mt. Washington or the Dike are still building because they are in upper elevations or well shaded. That said, daytime temps have been in the the mid-40's so be aware that the ice may not be as well bonded as it was.

Some people have been climbing the first pitch of Standard Route at Frankenstein. I DO NOT RECOMMEND this as the water is flowing too much and the route is mostly in the sun! Be patient and remember, this is only the 18th of November. The cold and snow will come, and we will get ice.

Selected Ice Conditions effective March 21, 2024
I can't actually say that there is nothing out there that can't be climbed. That would be foolish. But for the average, or a little above average climber, that's probably correct. That said, I did hear that there is climbable ice on Parasol in Dixville Notch. Not sure how that will be after we get a foot of heavy wet snow on Saturday. Regardless, here's a few pix I took today just to document things.
	Huntington Ravine	AVALANCHE
	Repentance	OUT
	Standard Route	OUT
	Dracula	OUT
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,