NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 12:30a on 03/22/19 - Temperature: 31.6 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 31.6 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.805 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Rapidly - Humidity: 71 %
IceCON 3. Ice generally available in the usual places, many climbs fat.
3 out of a possible 5
NorthEast MountaineeringMooney Mountain Guidesthe American Alpine ClubThe ACCESS Fund, Protect America's ClimbingInternational Mountain Climbing School
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December 2, 2004

Hi Folks,

Riding up to Crawford Notch this morning to check on the state-o-the-ice I thought to myself that it was time to say goodbye to rock season. It was below freezing, snow was on the ground and once I got above Bartlett there were a lot of flurries obscuring everything. Yet here it is at noon in our Valley and it's sunny and almost 40 in the shade. What's an ice climber to do?

Of course one thing you can do is to go rock climbing. Last Wednesday Brad White and I got in a day's efforts on Humphrey's and this Tuesday we did the same. It was a sunny day and from 10 until 2 it had to be at least 50 in the sun! Of course when the sun dipped behind the clouds it quickly chilled off. There also was a ton of water pouring off all the crags in the area. Cathedral has been steadily turning more green with moss and Humphrey's as wet as I can remember. You could even hear gurgling inside the cracks and crevices as we climbed. Still it was a wonderful time to be out, even if it were to be the last time. But you never know, do you?

It's hard to get excited about ice season when things are this slow to get off the ground. Fortunately I've been able to grab a few days here and there to keep my interest up, otherwise I'd be a very frustrated puppy. You can only spend so much time sharpening screws, tools and crampons before you just want to get out there & bash some ice!

There has been ice in the ravines consistently since the end of October. Certainly not as much as we all would like, but not terrible. People have been grabbing Pinnacle, Central and Odell's occasionally for a while now. As usual, Tuckerman has had some early season ice for several weeks that's attracted a number of intrepid individuals. Ice has formed left of Left Gully and on the right side in the obvious corner that has been fun to play on. I was in Tucks on Saturday and the climbing was pretty reasonable. After a very cold and windy Friday I was concerned that we would even be able to make it to the headwall, but it turned into a very nice day. here are a few shots you might like:

Left of Left
Right Corner
Landscape shot

It poured rain on Sunday and I would have thought that the conditions would have significantly deteriorated, however some friends went up on Monday and said again it was reasonable. They climbed up on the right, trended back left and up over the headwall to the Alpine Garden and came down the Summer Lion's Head trail. The said it was mixed ice and snow and fun, tho the Tucks trail was pretty bad.

I know I keep harping on the state of the ravine trail, but it has been as bad as I've ever seen it. As of Monday there was a lot of ice above the dogleg, and even the rocks you can normally hop on are covered with a film of verglass. It was quite hard to walk on the side as you normally would as well. Be more cautions than normal.


Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 21, 2019
It's been a wonderful ice season, but Spring is officially here folks. Thus the sun is strong so it's warm during the day, but it's cold at night. And of course that means that climbs in the full sun are crap, but anything in the shade can still be good and maybe even building a bit. Sure, Standard Route is still massive, but the ice isn't all that good IMO. I was up there today and thought the ice above the cave was punky! Climbs in the reflector oven that is the Amphitheater are a mess now and honestly in my mind it's not a smart place to be. We're entering a time when the best climbing will be up high in the Ravine. And of course the longer days make it a great time to be up there. From here on out I'm only going to be posting pictures of things I think are in climbable shape, and that's a dwindling supply.
Huntington Ravine IN mostly  
Repentance OUT Click to see route picture.
Standard Route climbable, but getting punky Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN - bring your snorkle Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

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Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

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Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

There are very, very few ice climbs in the world that are actually hard, but these mixed climbs, on the other hand, they were very hard. You could pitch on them...
Will Gadd
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