NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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December 9, 2004

Hi Folks,

Sometimes as I am driving by myself up to the Notch when the road is dry and there is nobody out, it's as if I am on cruise control. I think about the climb I'm going to do, the tune that's blasting on the iPod or the computer project that I'm currently working on. I don't "wake up" until I get to the Davis Path parking lot at the Texaco area. Right about there I snap out of it. Needless to say this definitely does NOT happen when I'm climbing!

Even tho climbing is almost second-nature to me now, when I'm out there I am just so totally focused on the job at hand. Every crimper, jug, axe placement and kick-step are vividly in the forefront of my brain's activity. There is no music running and thoughts about work intruding. It's just me and IT. As I soloed the first pitch of Standard this morning I was totally in the zone. Brad White and a client were on the right side so I took a steep line in the center, just right of a big hole that was running water. The ice was candled but thick enough to take full swings and great kicks, making me feel totally solid. It was a wonderful feeling to stand there in the middle of a 20' curtain of vertical ice and know that this was where I wanted and needed to be right at this moment in my life. There aren't a whole lot of things that can make you feel that alive.

Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE



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Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Leashes, gheesh those things are for dogs and weird people who walk their cats. Pappy are you a cat walker?
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