NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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March 24, 2005

Hi Folks,

The weather this week has been a real tease for everyone. You ride down the road and the snowbanks are all brown and look like the ground, but of course they aren't. That said we are starting to get patches of exposed ground where the sun is melting the snow and that's enough to get us all thinking about, what else, ROCK!

Of course the rock season has already started at places like Rumney, if it every stopped! People here are going out to Humphrey's and Sundown trying to grab the sunny pseudo-warm and bug-free days while they can. It is a time when you have to be careful tho. George Hurley and friend were at Humphrey's this week when a large chunk of ice fell off directly above them, fortunately disintegrating in mid-flight. They were lucky. I went over past Whitehorse yesterday and I think it will be a long time before anyone should attempt any climbs on the right or middle. However once we have a few more dry days the South Buttress should be good.

Whatever you do out there just make sure that there isn't some ice lurking in a crack above your head. It's a tricky transition time and maybe one that is better served up on Mt Washington or on a bike. <grin> Hey, I've already gotten in 4 good rides this week.

Oh yeah, one more thing. The Valley didn't get ANY of the snow that hit Southern NH & Massachusetts! Right now it's 44 and sunny. Eat your heart out.

Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective November 26, 2026
The past 3 warm days, Tuesday upper 60's in Crawford Notch, has really decimated the ice. Almost everything has come down on Cathedral Ledge, with even the top of Goofers gone! I have been hearing lots of crashing during the day and at night. EVEN tho my house is closed up! The right side of Whitehorse has also sloughed. I was riding my in Crawford Notch Tuesday afternoon and heard big crashes from the Amphitheater. It's going to get cold again, but the climbs that are gone will. likely not form again.
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route possible Click to see route picture.
Dracula possible Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE



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Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Winter alpinism is hard enough without the added dilemma of free-climbing ethics.
Barry Blanchard
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