NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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March 24, 2005

Hi Folks,

The weather this week has been a real tease for everyone. You ride down the road and the snowbanks are all brown and look like the ground, but of course they aren't. That said we are starting to get patches of exposed ground where the sun is melting the snow and that's enough to get us all thinking about, what else, ROCK!

Of course the rock season has already started at places like Rumney, if it every stopped! People here are going out to Humphrey's and Sundown trying to grab the sunny pseudo-warm and bug-free days while they can. It is a time when you have to be careful tho. George Hurley and friend were at Humphrey's this week when a large chunk of ice fell off directly above them, fortunately disintegrating in mid-flight. They were lucky. I went over past Whitehorse yesterday and I think it will be a long time before anyone should attempt any climbs on the right or middle. However once we have a few more dry days the South Buttress should be good.

Whatever you do out there just make sure that there isn't some ice lurking in a crack above your head. It's a tricky transition time and maybe one that is better served up on Mt Washington or on a bike. <grin> Hey, I've already gotten in 4 good rides this week.

Oh yeah, one more thing. The Valley didn't get ANY of the snow that hit Southern NH & Massachusetts! Right now it's 44 and sunny. Eat your heart out.

Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE



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Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Writing about climbing is boring. I would rather go climbing.
Chuck Pratt
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