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Oh boy, it's a mere matter of days before Xmas. Anyone who thinks that this is a relaxing time, is a definite nut case. to me it's one of the more stressful times of the year. Certainly it's a nice time, festive and all that. But there is just absolutely no break from the unrelenting march of buy-buy, do-do, until after New Year's. A part of me just wants to run away to the mountains somewhere and hide out 'till it's over. Wishful thinking, right?
I guess the fact that we're all getting a great holiday present in one of the better ice years than I've seen in quite a while should be present enough. Still, there was that new Cloudveil jacket, Nomic leashless ice tools and Isis shirt that I've been eyeing... Honey, are you listening? I guess I'm just a gear-slut at heart.
Saint Nick was spotted the other day making a test run over the Whites and some of his magic must have rubbed off. Pretty much everything has come in and has continued to build apace. Even the Hanging Garden has filled in with ice forming in unique places. Lake Willoughby hasn't missed out either, with new drips all over the place. All the regulars are making frantic pilgrimages north, grabbing new lines or ascents of old ones that are rarely in as fat a shape. In as little as 3 words:
It's All Good
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
iffy
Standard Route
GREAT conditions
Dracula
IN & very fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
Speaking of the Lake & new routes, check out the NEClimbs Photo Gallery for a couple of great shots of Will Mayo on Super Nova. Now THAT's a real accomplishment. What an amazing route by an amazing climber. I am really impressed. And speaking of the Photo Gallery, don't forget that you can post your own shots up there for all to admire. Any registered Forum member can post images that are no more than 150k each.
Not much else to say other than:
1) it's a great ice season, so get out there & take advantage of it
and
2) I wish you all a very enjoyable and happy holiday season
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
