NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 2:30p on 03/22/19 - Temperature: 43.8 °F - Wind speed: 2.0 mph - Wind chill: 42.7 °F - Barometric pressure: 28.989 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Rapidly - Humidity: 100 %
IceCON 3. Ice generally available in the usual places, many climbs fat.
3 out of a possible 5
Mooney Mountain GuidesBagels PlusInternational Mountain Climbing SchoolNew England Mountain Guidesthe American Alpine Club
S U B S C R I B E
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February 2, 2006

Hi Folks,

I consider myself a realist, at least as far as ice conditions are concerned. I feel compelled to "tell it like it is" while at the same time I don't want to come across pessimistic. Recently some folks have said that I've been down on the state of the ice. Frankly I don't think that is the case.

Every time I have gone out this season, whether on my own or guiding, I have been successful. I've done some really good climbing on my own, as well as had fun on many of the classics. In fact I went out today with Brad White and I did Last Exit and Brad and I bagged a couple of cool pillars in the Hanging Garden. In point of fact the ice we did couldn't have been a whole lot better.

The fact is that most years everything isn't always IN at the same time. However, if you are moderately competent and flexible in your plans, there will always be something for you to do. By flexible I mean willing to head uphill if the temps in the lower elevations are too warm, or look for climbs in refrigerated areas. By moderately competent I would say be able to climb 3+ easy 4's and feel OK on occasional mixed ground. And frankly this shouldn't be all that big a deal if you ice climb in New England very much.

That said, I feel perfectly comfortable when I say that things in a particular area are OUT. When lately I have advised that the Frankenstein Amphitheater is altogether OUT, that's because I walk over the trestle, put the binoculars on the climbs and feel that I wouldn't be comfortable up there myself. That's not to say that there isn't some ice up there that someone couldn't climb. Of course there is. Hey, there were folks up on Chia a week ago in conditions that frankly I thought were terrible. Of course that was their call. But I wasn't willing to even walk around those climbs, much climb them in that state.

I judge IN and OUT by two answering these 2 questions:

1) do I believe that the climb can be led by a competent climber in its consensus rating;

2) would I personally be willing to do it?

Really straight ahead. Subjective? You betcha. But that's exactly what I'm offering you folks - my opinion. Of course every leader makes their own assessment of the state of a climb at the moment they stand at the base of the route and look up at it. If they want to climb Dropline on a 50 degree day after 3 days of rain, that's their choice. They may get away with it, they may not. Over the years I have done a lot of climbing, in a variety of conditions and I know when a given climb's in a state that I wouldn't want to be up on it in. Your mileage may vary, and of course remember - this is New Hampshire folks, it's your choice...
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 21, 2019
It's been a wonderful ice season, but Spring is officially here folks. Thus the sun is strong so it's warm during the day, but it's cold at night. And of course that means that climbs in the full sun are crap, but anything in the shade can still be good and maybe even building a bit. Sure, Standard Route is still massive, but the ice isn't all that good IMO. I was up there today and thought the ice above the cave was punky! Climbs in the reflector oven that is the Amphitheater are a mess now and honestly in my mind it's not a smart place to be. We're entering a time when the best climbing will be up high in the Ravine. And of course the longer days make it a great time to be up there. From here on out I'm only going to be posting pictures of things I think are in climbable shape, and that's a dwindling supply.
Huntington Ravine IN mostly  
Repentance OUT Click to see route picture.
Standard Route climbable, but getting punky Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN - bring your snorkle Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Local Climber Jim Gagne Readying for Seven Summit Bid: As many of you may know, Jim leaves in just six weeks for Mount Everest. This is the seventh and final climb of his Seven Summit quest. It's no walk-up and Jim has been preparing for this event for many years. I've climbed, biked and hiked with Jim and I'm personally confident that he is as ready as he will ever be. I'm betting that conditions permitting he'll be successful the first time out.

Jim will be doing a slideshow of his climb on Mt. Vinson in Antarctica as a fundraiser for his quest. It should be a great show and sendoff for Jim. Donations are $10 and greatly appreciated. All are welcome! Please pass the word.

"Antarctica, Mt. Vinson" slide show on Thursday, February 9th,2006 at 7:00 PM, at Plymouth Ski and Sports, Main Street Plymouth.

Any questions, or comments contact Jim at jlgagne69@verizon.net

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,


Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Mountain climbing is the supreme occasion of physical enjoyment. Far from doping, it actually stimulates our senses and intelligence.
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