NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 3:00p on 03/22/19 - Temperature: 44.0 °F - Wind speed: 5.0 mph - Wind chill: 42.9 °F - Barometric pressure: 28.976 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Rapidly - Humidity: 100 %
IceCON 3. Ice generally available in the usual places, many climbs fat.
3 out of a possible 5
Adventure Spirit: Rock+Ice+Alpine ExperiencesInternational Mountain EquipmentJulbo: The world needs your visionMooney Mountain GuidesThe ACCESS Fund, Protect America's Climbing
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February 15, 2007

Hi Folks,

When I woke up this morning the wind was really howling. There were several 30 MPH gusts in a row at about 6:30. I was a bit concerned that I wouldn't be able to get up in the Notch to take pictures. The local schools all were delayed opening for 2 hours, 'till 11, so I decided I better do some snowblowing and clearing here. I had done a pretty good pass at it late yesterday afternoon as the storm was winding down. The driveway was in good shape, scoured by the wind. Unfortunately the front door, breezeway and back entrance had been packed with 4' of the stuff. I had to get out of the house through the garage door. Even the webcam took a hit.

front door
webcam icecicle

Of course the downside of this amount of snow is that it raises the probability of avalanches in all kinds of places. Of course one would expect that they danger would be high up there, and it is. However many other places are just as loaded, and almost as dangerous. At Frankenstein there were avalanche debris at the base of the Trestle Slab and Waterfall on Wednesday. While not huge, they were certainly big enough to have knocked you off your feet and probably covered you, had you been in the wrong place at the wrong time. Both Flume and Silver Cascades are totally full of snow and probably aren't too stable right now. Willey's looked very clear from the road this morning, and that is almost certainly due to a release over the last 24 hours.

I have been halfway up Cinema when there was a small avalanche off to my right that was triggered by a release from the upper tier. Had I been under it I most certainly would have ended up at the bottom of the climb! 2 years ago I was guiding over at the North End of Cathedral in a snowstorm. We were up on the slab just below Thresher when the whole slab we were standing on released. It made a huge WHUMP and swept most of the snow off the slab. Fortunately my 2 clients and I were tied into a tree and didn't get swept away. However it could have been a real disaster.

Wherever you are out climbing over the next several days, keep your attention on the possibility that you are in avalanche terrain. Have fun, but be safe...
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 21, 2019
It's been a wonderful ice season, but Spring is officially here folks. Thus the sun is strong so it's warm during the day, but it's cold at night. And of course that means that climbs in the full sun are crap, but anything in the shade can still be good and maybe even building a bit. Sure, Standard Route is still massive, but the ice isn't all that good IMO. I was up there today and thought the ice above the cave was punky! Climbs in the reflector oven that is the Amphitheater are a mess now and honestly in my mind it's not a smart place to be. We're entering a time when the best climbing will be up high in the Ravine. And of course the longer days make it a great time to be up there. From here on out I'm only going to be posting pictures of things I think are in climbable shape, and that's a dwindling supply.
Huntington Ravine IN mostly  
Repentance OUT Click to see route picture.
Standard Route climbable, but getting punky Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN - bring your snorkle Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Lake Willoughby Rescue Cache #2 In Place:
The second phase of the effort to place a pair of rescue caches near main climbing areas on Mt. Pisgah has been completed. Kudos to Dave Powers and the Northeastern Vermont Climber's Alliance for making it happen and to Richard Doucette, from the Boston AMC Mountaineering Committee, for spearheading the efforts. For such a popular area, this is long overdue. Here is Dave's report and some pictures as well:

On Monday Feb 12th four NEVCA volunteers installed a second first aid cache on Mt. Pisgah. The new cache is located alongside The Last Gentleman trail near the bottom of the cliff. The other cache is located on a knoll between Left Tablet and Crazy Diamond. Both Cache boxes are equipped with a stretcher and basic first aid gear. The stretcher and first aid supplies will be in place during the ice climbing season only. Rescue equipment is now accessible within minutes from almost every highly traveled route on Pisgah.

This project has been in the works for two years and is now complete and a total success. It was made possible by people from all over New England. A special thanks goes out to Richard Doucette, Jeff Cambell, Sam Morton, Al Hospers , Northeastern Vermont Climber's Alliance, and all the other people who donated time, money and supplies.

David Powers


Ed Webster Slide Show - Mar 02, 2007 - 7PM:
Maine Sport Outfitters is sponsoring and hosting a slide show and talk detailing Webster's landmark Mt. Everest climb and subject of his book: "Snow in the Kingdom, My Storm Years on Everest." Tickets: $8 adults; $5 students available at Maine Sport or at the door. For more info call 207-236-7120

Festiglace Du Quebec - February 16, 2007:
The 10th annual Festiglace in Pont-Rouge is an amazing ice climbing festival that attracts over 7,000 visitors every year. There are competitions, demonstrations, workshops, food, parties and lots more - all in a great location.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Chaos rules it all.
Mark Twight
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