NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 11:29a on 11/30/20 - Temperature: 47.7 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 47.7 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.948 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 100 %
IceCON 0. Minimal ice available for the hard core and mixed aficionados!
0 out of a possible 5
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September 6, 2007

Hi Folks,

There has been a fair amount of new route development taking place lately, some on local crags like Cathedral Ledge, where you might think that there is nothing left to be done. Obviously that's not really the case, as evidenced by several fine new lines being discovered and developed by local climbers such as George Hurley, Brad White, Zebulon Jakub, Dave Lottmann and Michael Khan. For example it was hard to believe that there would be anything new over on the North End of Cathedral, but George and Dave found a pair of really nice lines, one new (The Liger) and one as an extension of an existing climb (The Roof). I climbed The Roof and its extension with George this past spring and it's as nice a climb as one could possibly ask for. The Liger, which goes up the corner of the Unicorn ice climb, looks very cool as well.

Another new climb was added next to Repentance by Zebulon and Brad, taking you up to the belay anchor on the first pitch of Repentance. I haven't gotten the complete details, but I understand it's a 10 with excellent gear. There is some nice looking rock in that section of the cliff, but as many times as I've walked by there I have never spotted what looks like a line. I received a note from George and Mike Khan a few weeks ago about another route that George discovered right by the start of Recompense. They named it By The Way and rated it at 9+ or 10-. Apparently you start on the "granite steps which lead up to Recompense, Brown's Fist, etc." The crux is at the top and has a bolt for protection.

Of course there is always some amount of adventure route development going on in the "back country" by a variety of folks, most of which you never hear about unless you know the parties involved. Recently a flurry of activity has taken place in Crawford Notch on Mt. Webster. While generally thought of as a winter alpine destination, it's actually home to some very nice granite slabs. Longtime guide and climber Chuck Woodman and partner Jack Dorsey have put up a couple of long moderate routes on the Central Gully slabs, almost directly across from Willey's Slide. Their 2 documented climbs are in the 5.5/5.6 range. Bore Tide, another climb put up by a different group in the same area, goes at 5.10. These climbs have seen quite a bit of traffic lately and the reports are very good. Word has it that there is more to come! Kudos to all parties involved...
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective November 26, 2020
YUP, the ice has been forming in the notches and the higher elevations, tho nothing here in the Valley. People have been climbing in Tucks, Pinnacle and I even heard that there was reasonable ice on Mt Avalon - tho that's a slog. That said, it's not clear where things will be after this weekend's rain and warmup. I guess we'll just have to wait and see. At least all this sure puts some water in the system. [wry grin]
Huntington Ravine Pinnacle has been done  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OUT Click to see route picture.
Dracula OUT Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

In the past people found out about new routes from the first ascent party directly, by scouring the New Route Book which was stored under the counter at IME, or just by seeing a freshly cleaned or bolted line on the cliff. Now a big part of the exchange is happening on-line, in places like our own forum. It's a cool development whereby a FA party can post an announcement and some pictures or a topo one evening and have people get out and do the climb the next day. I want to thank all those who have taken the time to post their routes on NEClimbs so that the rest of us can enjoy their efforts in a timely manner.

Quincy Quarries Adopt-A-Crag
Saturday, September 8
10 am – 2 pm

Now is your chance to give back to the great places where we all love to recreate. REI, the Access Fund, and DCR have partnered to bring this year’s Adopt-A-Crag event to the South Shore. We will be working to make the Quarries shine for ClimbFest, taking place on September 22. Please wear long pants and bring work gloves.

Please call REI at (781) 740-9430 to register and obtain directions. Free REI T-shirt, snacks and water will also be provided by REI.

Bug Report:
Absolutely minimal bugs out there this time of year except for some mosquitoes & gnats.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

I was damn glad I was with George. He was solid. I told him of my confidence, and he replied that he felt the same way. I might be lousy on 5.10, but he reckoned I had a high survival potential.
Chris Jones
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