NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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October 18, 2007

Hi Folks,

Wee doggies, you people just keep putting up new routes and sending them in to me. Lately there have been routes in interesting places like Mt. Huntington off the Kanc, Attitash Crag next to the Saco by the ski resort, and other cool places. I've spent several hours over the last week or so getting them formatted and into the NEClimbs web site. Most of the climbs that have been sent are now up, tho not all the pictures - sorry, and available in the Routes database. Thanks to everyone who has sent me stuff. Currently there are 376 rock routes from 26 areas and 120 ice routes from 15 areas on NEClimbs!

If you are out there putting up a new route, it might be worthwhile to check out the database to see if the line you have been scoping hasn't already been done. While it doesn't have everything, between the Webster guide and this database it covers most stuff in the Mt. Washington Valley area. That is with the exception of Sundown, which I haven't made any attempt to deal with yet, and Mt Hedgehog, and Crag Y, and... Well you get the picture. It's a pretty big job trying to catalog all this stuff.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

So along those lines, I have to ask. What do you think about a new guidebook? While there are quite a number of guides out there for the area, they are either old (like the Webster and Handren books) or only address a small portion of the area's routes (like the Falcon or Mountaineer's books). Would a new guidebook be appreciated? Would people buy it? would it be best to do a Select guide, or attempt another full coverage book - if it were really possible. I've set up a topic in the General Climbing section on the NEClimbs forum for your comments. I would appreciate your input.

More On Screw Sharpening:
Dave C, a friend from Boston mentioned that there is another more local guy, near Rumney, doing sharpening of ice screws. He is located not far from I-93, off of NH 175, his saw sharpening sign is pretty obvious at a big zig-zag in the road halfway between I-93 exits 27 & 28 (just north of the Rumney exit.

Kenneth H Smith
685 NH Rt 175
Campton, NH 03223

According to Dave, "He sharpened 13 of my "ice augers" for $20. And, he is real New Hampshire, which is harder and harder to find underneath the Walmart New Hampshire." Another Dave also gave Kenneth's work kudos, so if you try him please let me know how it works out.

Bug Report:
Other than a few tiny little bugs I haven't seen anything. Probably has to do with the couple of hard-freezes we've had over the past couple of days. Let's hope it's actually over for the season.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


My mother used to rock me — and she used big rocks.
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