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Well I would figure that at this time of year the topmost thing on everybody's mind will be the state of the ice, especially after how things were last week. While we didn't get the major rain that we so often have around Christmas or early January, we did get a big-time thaw with the temps reaching over 60 degrees in the sun last Wednesday at Frankenstein. So are we still in the crapper, or have things come back? Let's cut right to the chase...
I rode up to Crawford Notch and then around Franconia Notch yesterday morning as I knew I wasn't going to be able to get out today. It was a windy morning and the temps were still in the teens at around 9 AM when I started out. My first impression is that things are looking a LOT better after several inches of snow on Monday and the better part of a week's cold temps. I got a very good initial impression when I saw how much Black Pudding had reformed. In fact it looks as if It is climbable, or very close. Texaco didn't look too good, but that is to be expected. While the Amphitheater at Frankenstein isn't happening yet, it is most certainly filling in pretty well. The only thing likely to be climbable by the weekend may be the Pegasus Rock Finish, but Chia and Smear are coming along well and should be OK again in a week, if not sooner.
Lost In The Forest, Walk In The Forest and Waterfall, while looking a lot better, are going to take longer IMO. Standard Left and Main on the other hand look very good. Even the upper curtains are reforming and should be OK by early next week. The climb is actually in pretty good shape right now. Moving up the Notch, Willie's looks pretty good and the Numbered Gullies are coming back quickly. Cinema however isn't doing quite as well. Right now it's just light snow plastered on the rock. The snow that is predicted for Friday should help that situation. I think that Hitchcock should be in pretty good shape by the weekend and the upper slabs and some of the other climbs should be OK as well. Snot Rocket is starting to reform, Elephant Head is looking close and the Cascades are both locking up again. It's pretty impressive how fast it's happening.
The ice is done and I am no longer issuing reports. I had someone text me personally asking about the status of ice in the Ravines. Even if I know something, I am no longer going to answer those questions. IMO it is irresponsible to be climbing, other than maybe on a top-rope at this time. I know it's beautiful out there right now. I GET IT! But climbing is generally a group, or at least duo, activity. Everyone touches everything. And if I touch something of yours, that means I have touched everything that you have come in contact with for the past 14 days. I love climbing and the group dynamic as much as anyone, but climbing right now is simply not worth the risk. You simply cannot guarantee that you are 100% safe and put everyone in jeopardy.
Huntington Ravine
OUT
Repentance
OUT
Standard Route
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Dracula
OUT
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
Over in Franconia Notch the Black Dike is actually looking pretty good. The upper section of Fafnir doesn't look in yet, but there are lots of flows appearing in interesting places to its right. It looks as if Hassig's may be climbable as well. The lower section of Omega hasn't come back, but for some that's just a challenge, right? As I rode by I noticed that there was minimal ice in the Echo Crag area, but that should change over the weekend. However, directly across the road form the entrance to the climber's parking lot at Cannon were two interesting looking flows in the lower 3rd of the cliff band these are the 2 additions pics listed below.
It's kind of impressive how much other dribbles and stuff are starting to form. Maybe that's not too surprising, considering how much water was flowing from the thaw. Hey, things might even end up a bit better that they were, if the cold stays around. So that's the deal. It seems to me as if we should be in good shape in plenty of time for the upcoming Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival on February 7th. I have my fingers crossed...
NOTE - from the weather predictions (below) it looks as if it's going to be a VERY cold weekend and probably the coldest so far this winter. If you're going to be out this weekend it might be a good time to break out those plastic boots and heavy belay coats!
Shameless Musical Promotion - Tony Sarno Band
Up for the long holiday weekend? Looking for something to do on Saturday or Sunday night? Drop by the Wildcat Tavern in Jackson. Blues guitarist and singer Tony Sarno will be there from 8:30-11:30. He plays a great mix of classic blues, rock and original tunes. Be sure to say hi, I'm the bass player in the band.
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
