NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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January 25, 2008

Hi Folks,

As many of you may have heard, an accident took place on Mt. Washington in Huntington Ravine on Friday, January 18th. Unfortunately it took the the life of Peter Roux, 39, of Bartlett, Tennessee. Roux had gone up to solo Odell Gully that morning and was reported by a close friend as being overdue early that evening. An initial search of the ravine access routes later that evening failed to find him and, due to avalanche danger, search teams did not enter the ravine until around sunrise the next morning. Unfortunately his body was discovered atop avalanche debris at the base of the gully.

I was going to comment on this incident, but based on the thread on the topic in the NEClimbs.com forum and the well reasoned and detailed analysis of the incident on the Forest Service site (http://www.tuckerman.org/accident/20072008.htm), I have decided to forgo this one. The only comment I have is one of my deepest sympathy to his family and close friends. May he rest in peace...

Thanks to the Forest Service personnel, the MWV Mountain Rescue Service, Androscoggin Valley Search and Rescue, the Appalachian Mountain Club, the Harvard Mountaineering Club and the Mount Washington Observatory for assistance in handling this tragic incident.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

While the ice right now is not as good as it would be if we hadn't gotten the week-long thaw, we're better off than we were last year at this time. Here are some comparison shots from last season and this:

Dracula 1/18/2007
Dracula 1/25/2008
Great Madness 1/18/2007
Great Madness 1/25/2008
Penguin 1/18/2007
Penguin 1/25/2008
Standard Left 1/18/2007
Standard Left 1/25/2008

Here are a few other unusual shots from Thursday. More normal ones are on the full Ice Report page...

Diagonal
Upper Mordor Wall
Texaco Amphitheater
Tripecicle
Upper Hitchcock Right
The Way In The Wilderness

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


I find that rock climbing is the finest, most healthiest sport in the whole world. It is much healthier than most; look at baseball, where 10,000 sit on their ass to watch a handful of players
John Salathé
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