NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 11:29p on 01/22/20 - Temperature: 14.2 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 14.2 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.255 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 90 %
IceCON 2. Some trade routes are climbable, even in lower elevations.
2 out of a possible 5
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May 22, 2008

Hi Folks,

I have a love-hate relationship with this time of year. On one hand it is the start of summer. Everything is turning green, flowers are popping up everywhere and the snow is almost all gone. It is now when daytime temps are mild, nights are still cool, and the feeling is one of anticipation of the summer. It is a time for renewal and of coming out. I can climb, ride, hike, whatever I want to do. It's a terrible thing!

Fortunately it's right about now that the spring rains start, the blackflies swarm, the mosquitoes and ticks come out to play, pollen allergies start to ramp up and there is a seemingly never-ending call to do yard work. I can count on numerous glorious days when I have to be out working in my yard or on my house and can hear the siren-call of the climbers on the Ledge. Perhaps it's even you... "On belay", "Off belay", "Climbing". The sounds echo and bounce across the woods and fields, each one making me feel more frustrated. As the summer progresses and I have my windows open I can even hear your voices as I am sitting here chained to my chair in front of the computer screen with a web site or article deadline looming over my head. [sigh]

So you understand that on the days that I have work to do I would much prefer that the weather be bad, the bugs awful, and the pollen terrible. Otherwise I am going to be very unhappy, stuck here while you all are out there. It is both the best and worst of times, just not quite the way you might think.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 16, 2020
These pictures and today's Report is actually from 1/15, Wednesday. I knew it was going to be snowing almost all day today and I would not be able to take any pictures, so I went up to the Notch yesterday, figuring that 24 hours would make very little difference. I was pleasantly surprised at how much ice survived the 3 days of record temps and rain. In spite of everything the weather threw at us, there is still ice to climb and while the Frankenstein Amphitheater looks even worse, there are still options. This is a time to be cautious due to possible delamination, but if you want to get out and climb, you can. Just be aware that the next several days will be VERY cold, so dress appropriately and beware of what will likely be some very brittle ice.
Huntington Ravine options - beware avalanche danger  
Repentance building well Click to see route picture.
Standard Route OK but top is a mess again Click to see route picture.
Dracula kind of OK but top out bad! Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Kevin Mahoney & Byard Russell Climb for Cancer Awareness:
These two well known local climbers are in Alaska attempting to climb peak 8290. The Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center in Seattle is sponsoring the climb in the Fairweather Mountains of southeast Alaska as a means of bringing awareness to the need for continuous cancer research. More...

NY Times story

Memorial Day:
Over 35 million men and women answered the call to arms in World Wars I and II, Korea, Vietnam, the Persian Gulf, Afghanistan, Iraq, and numerous other military conflicts and more than 500,000 of them never returned home. Some died in battles, others in captivity, but all died far too soon. Recent military actions in Afghanistan and Iraq have once again served to remind us of the reality of conflict. While the merits of any given action can and should be debated, there should be no debate about our debt to those citizen-soldiers who have sacrificed their lives heeding our nation's call to service.

It is important to remember that Memorial Day is far more than simply a day signaling the start of yet another summer. Please take just a moment out of your busy weekend to pause and reflect on the sacrifices, remember the bravery, and celebrate the gallantry of those in service to our country. Make that moment a time to remember all of those who have fallen and all those who are currently serving. These are men and women who deserve both our respect and our admiration.

I also hope each and every one of you have a great weekend. Eat a hot dog and lift a beer for me. [grin]

ONE MORE IMPORTANT NOTE On Your White Mountain Report Subscription:
Ever once in a while I get a bounce back from someone who is using one of the services that requires the person sending an email to them to sign up or register. I got one of these just last week. Just so you know folks, that isn't going to happen. I simply don't have the time to go through that process and my automated email program won't do it for me. Sorry 'bout that... Please sign up with a gmail or hotmail account & then forward that to your regular mail account. Thanks...

The number of subscribers to the White Mountain Report has this week nosed over the 1,000 mark. That's incredible to me. Thanks to all who take the time to read this stuff. I sincerely appreciate it.

I've raised the Instant Bug Report number to a solid 3 this week. The blackflies are definitely out there now and are starting to lust. I was over at the South Buttress the other day & had forgotten the bug dope & let me say that it wasn't exactly entertaining. Don't forget to check for ticks when you come in at the end of your time outside and put the Frontline on the pets.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

In 1961 I led this chimney in a state of metabolic uproar. At the base of the pitch I smoked several cigarettes (the first and last ones of my life). This was to calm me. Then I spooned half a jar of honey. This was to ensure superhuman strength. Mort Hempel, my partner, watched this silly ritual with mouth agape and eyes exploding with fear.
Steve Roper
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