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Step right of the crack, put your left foot on the nubbin by your right knee, press through and rock over to where you can reach that sidepull way out on the right, NO NO on the RIGHT, now smear your right toe on that solution pocket by your knee and stand up so you can match both hands on that tiny crimper that's just below the slot where you'll need to place that number 3 RP to keep you out of groundfall range.
BETA... You love it or hate it. Regardless of your preference, climb enough and you're certainly going to hear it. Shoot - depending on the partner you might even get a steady stream of it as you climb, regardless of whether you're leading or seconding. Sure, a suggestion for a piece of essential gear by someone who has done a route before can be very useful. If you've never done Loose Lips you might appreciate someone mentioning that the purple Metolius TCU and a couple of very small nuts can be very useful to bring along. But, you might not appreciate anything close to the first paragraph above.
Over the years I've found that there is nothing more confusing to beginners than the running dialog of BETA that is so often proffered by what seems to be everyone around them. What's even more amazing is when people who have never climbed a particular route, and who can often barely climb themselves climb, offer up all manner of suggestions. It's interesting how someone standing on the ground, or even occasionally on another climb 40' away, can feel so compelled to try and get someone to climb in a particular way.
Over the years I've made the somewhat-conscious decision not to offer suggestions about how to make a particular move on a climb unless I was directly asked. Especially with beginners... Allowing a fledgling climber to make at least the first attempt on a route, if not a series of moves, without comment lets them focus on what they have to do and not be distracted by what they think you want them to do. If they make the move without my help they feel really good, even if they don't do it particularly well. If they flail for a while, then you I might offer a suggestion or two, remembering that very often what works for me may not work for then for them; for a wide variety of reasons - not the least of which are strength, weight, balance, experience...you name it.
And oh yeah. In my personal experience I really do think that keeping BETA to myself may have helped preserve my marriage. Your mileage may vary...
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
iffy
Standard Route
GREAT conditions
Dracula
IN & very fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
BTW - happy July 4th. Looks like the weather is going to be good. I hope you have a very fun and safe one.
Quote Of The Week:
Poogie Bell, one of my all time favorite drummers who happens to play with Marcus Miller, posted this thought on his web site.
"If it's stopping you from moving forward, let it go."
I love it... Made it my mantra for the week.
Bug Report:
In some places the bugs are no problem at all. In others it's as bad as I've ever seen it. What makes the difference? I have absolutely no idea. What I do know is that I'm keeping the bug dope in the back for the time being. YMMV...
Peregrine Closings 2010:
To promote successful nesting by NH state-threatened Peregrine Falcons, temporary access restrictions are currently posted at the following New Hampshire cliff sites through August 1, 2010:
Cathedral Ledge (north end only), Bartlett, NH
Eaglet Spire (and adjacent walls), Franconia, NH
Frankenstein (lower south-facing wall), Harts Loc., NH
Holts Ledge, Lyme, NH
Owls Head (see signs on site for closed section), Benton, NH
Painted Walls, Albany, NH
Rattlesnake Mtn. (Summit Cliff only), Rumney, NH
Square Ledge, Albany, NH
Sugarloaf Mtn., Benton, NH
These postings are subject to change as conditions warrant. Printed material suitable for posting will be distributed to field offices, climbing schools, and recreational outlets. Your cooperation is essential to the success of this effort. Share the cliffs with wildlife!
- Chris Martin, Senior Biologist, NH Audubon
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,
Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire
Wilderness /n./ archaic word used to refer to the space that once existed between urban areas and which is now used as a proving ground for 4-wheel drive vehicles.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
