NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:59a on 01/12/20 - Temperature: 52.9 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 52.9 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.654 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 100 %
IceCON 3. Ice generally available in the usual places, many climbs fat.
3 out of a possible 5
NorthEast MountaineeringInternational Mountain Climbing SchoolInternational Mountain EquipmentMooney Mountain Guidesthe American Alpine Club
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January 13, 2011

Hi Folks,

I must admit that I was kind of enjoying not having to snowplow this year and it was pretty darn fun to be able to get on the mountain bike and ride down top the North End to go ice climbing! That said it was pretty weird to be walking around in the leaves in my crampons underneath ice climbs. After Wednesday's storm I think that's pretty much done now. Tho the southern part of the state got more, the Mount Washington Valley got pretty close to a foot and Crawford Notch got somewhat over that. I'm confident that the local ski areas and Chamber Of Commerce are very happy right now…

Last Friday I got out for a couple of hours with Brad White and we decided to check out the state of the Barking Dog Crag. I've mentioned this place before as an alternative to the North End of Cathedral Ledge. It's small, but it has a few fun climbs. Occasionally I'll just go down there by myself and run laps on some of the flows. There was a group of three guys that we knew from earlier this season already up there, but there was plenty of room for all of us. I led the short steep little pillar right of the main flow and then we topped a couple of other thin problems to the right. It was a perfect morning break for both of us.

We both noticed how generally dry and desiccated the ice was. Like last week on Repentance and Deidre there was no water running anywhere. I'm convinced that this is due to the lack of snow. That's changed now and I'm hoping that we'll start to see a refreshing of the ice on all of the climbs. Who knows, maybe Repentance will come fully in. Of course IN is most certainly a relative term. I didn't think that Remission would be climbable and then I saw pix of Jim Ewing and Eric McCallister doing it last weekend.

One note however… The snow on many of the climbs that I saw today has formed pillows that IMHO is definitely going to move in the coming couple of days. This is not just in the Ravines where you would expect, but on climbs like Cinema Gully, any of the slabs like Willies or those on Webster, Shoestring Gully and the slabs right of Hitchcock at the top of Crawford Notch. Even the upper tier of Standard Route or the lower section of Hobbit Couloir are loaded right now. What I'm saying here is to be vigilant when climbing for the next several days until things have a chance to settle out. Better safe than…
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 16, 2020
These pictures and today's Report is actually from 1/15, Wednesday. I knew it was going to be snowing almost all day today and I would not be able to take any pictures, so I went up to the Notch yesterday, figuring that 24 hours would make very little difference. I was pleasantly surprised at how much ice survived the 3 days of record temps and rain. In spite of everything the weather threw at us, there is still ice to climb and while the Frankenstein Amphitheater looks even worse, there are still options. This is a time to be cautious due to possible delamination, but if you want to get out and climb, you can. Just be aware that the next several days will be VERY cold, so dress appropriately and beware of what will likely be some very brittle ice.
Huntington Ravine options - beware avalanche danger  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OK but top is a mess again Click to see route picture.
Dracula kind of OK but top out bad! Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Regular conditions pix are on the site in the Conditions page, here's a few other interesting ones:


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Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

It is to conquer fear that one becomes a climber. The climber experiences life to its extreme. A climber is not crazy. He is not out to get himself killed. He knows what life is worth. He is in love with living.
Walter Bonatti
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