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August 11, 2011

Hi Folks,

Outside of the economy, the crazed mechanizations of the stock market and the roots in England, the big story of the week was an amazing fall off the Prow by local climber Hans Bauer. To say he's a lucky man is a real understatement. To fall 100 feet off the Space Station belay and get away with more or less uninjured is nothing short of a miracle on the order of the kid who drowned for 20 minutes and lived. Go figure…

I was going to write it up, but the article in the local Conway Daily Sun by journalist and local climber Erik Eisele was so well written there really is no need. It's great to finally have someone writing this stuff that actually KNOWS what the heck they're talking about, and Erik sure does. Here's the link -

http://www.conwaydailysun.com/featured/story/fall081011

Interview With Hugh Herr:
This week there was a great interview on NPR with local legend Hugh Herr. Thanks to another legend, Todd Swain, for the link. DO NOT miss this one -

http://www.npr.org/2011/08/10/137552538/the-double-amputee-who-designs-better-limbs
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

All That Glitters - A Climber's Journey Through Addiction And Depression:
I haven't read this tell-all-confessional book by Margot Talbot, but I was really impressed by the article Alison Osius wrote about in her recent blog on Rock & Ice. I figured since I was putting lots of links in MY blog (yes, I admit that this is pretty much a blog) this week I would include this one. Check this out -

http://rockandice.com/tnb-blog/tnb-all-that-glitters.html

And here's the link to the book itself -

http://www.allthatglittersbook.com/

As an aside - I've always been impressed with the way Alison writes…she's real, she's down to earth, she tells things the way she sees 'em and she writes about what she knows. I'd love to be able to write that way. Anywho...

Instant Bug Report:
Mostly the bugs aren't bad except in the deep woods. We'll see what happens after this upcoming spout of wet weather tho. Stay tuned...

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and hopefully LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Naked male sport climbers? No! I want naked male trad hogs! Pushing 50 or over, very hairy chest and back, front tooth missing (no dental insurance), wrinkled yellow toenail fungus, sunburnt dome with long gray ponytail (sparse curls will do), fingers the size of Polish sausages, torn-off nipples due to offwidth damage... Now there's a man, an image to behold, every climber chick's dream. And when he says: 'Hey, honey, wanna do the DNB?' you just melt into a heap of adoring lard.
Inez Drixelius
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