NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 1:59a on 02/26/21 - Temperature: 20.5 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 20.5 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.095 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 31 %
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
Equinox Guiding Service LLCInternational Mountain EquipmentMooney Mountain Guidesthe American Alpine ClubMount Washington Valley Climbers Cooperative
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March 1, 2012

Hi Folks,

Well it's a weather rollercoaster right now and trying to make heads or tails of what's going on is almost impossible. I suppose I should not try and predict and just go with the flow. A week ago I would have bet that we'd be out on the rock this weekend and I'd be riding the road bike. But, after the big storm last week and another one going on right now - all bets are most decidedly OFF. I'm not saying that all the ice is coming back like gangbusters, but with this fresh snowpack and generally more cloudy days, things are certainly going to be holding on a whole lot better.

All the ski areas were ready to write off the season, and then last week's 8+ inches of heavy wet stuff certainly turned that around. The middle of the week was pretty nice, but somewhat cooler than it has been, and it it seemed like fairly nice wintry conditions for a change. I have had a busy week but I did manage to get over to the North End of Cathedral a couple of times just to get in some laps. I thought it had been taking a hit, so I was pleasantly surprised to see that it was still looking good. Thresher was in particularly good shape and I enjoyed the little steep section on the left near the top. I was somewhat surprised to see someone had put in a red v-thread in the little lower gully on the left. I had no idea what that would have been about.

I was at the Mountain Rescue Service benefit at Flatbread's on Tuesday. It was crowded as always and I believe it was a success. It's always nice to see lots of folks that I don't see all that often, drink a beer or two and enjoy the great pizza. When that comes up again next year I strongly suggest that you put it on the schedule.

Brad White and our friend Ian C went up to ski on Canon a couple of days ago and reported back that it was snowing like crazy up there in Franconia. It was hard to understand, considering that there was nothing going on here in our little Valley, but apparently they were getting steadily dumped on. Someone else just got back from a couple of days at Jay Peak and said the same kind of thing. with the exception of the widespread event we're getting right now, I guess it's pretty much of a crap-shoot - where the snow is I mean!

Significant March snowfall is really not all that unusual. Some years we get steady snowfall throughout the winter, the reality is that March is usually the snowiest time of the year. That said this January and February were one of the lowest snow years on record. Unless we get some truly major dumps in March it is likely to keep the 2011/2012 winter is one of the lowest on record overall.

The thing to worry about is the possibility of some rain or mixed precipitation coming through on Saturday. If we dodge that bullet we should be OK for some time longer. Regardless, at least we've had a pretty reasonable ice season. I've managed to do most of the climbing I wanted to do, with only a couple of exceptions, so that's been just fine. And hey, with all this snow I may actually get in a fair amount of time on the XC Skis after all. [grin]
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 25, 2021
It really does feel a little more like mid-March than late February right now, tho this really has to do with a couple of sunny days with temps in the 40's. Of course that's not really a bad thing, as long as it stays cool at night and we don't get any rain. But stay tuned... In general tho the ice is in good shape right now, with a few exceptions where the climbs have been in full sun over the past couple of warm days. The thing to be aware of is that there are places where the ice is punky and snowcone-like or has become undermined. But as long as you are paying attention, you'll be OK. Frankly early to mid-March is really my favorite time to climb. There's nothing like those longer days, more moderate temps and plastic ice. And the occasional warm day when you can get out on some warm early-season rock! What's not to like?
Huntington Ravine IN  
Repentance questionable Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE


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Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Take your chisled, over-bolted routes and puny boulder problems and go have an epic finding a vegan meal in Thailand.
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