NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 11:29a on 01/21/20 - Temperature: 15.3 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 15.3 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.305 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 30 %
IceCON 1. Climbs just coming in or only in upper elevations like Ravines.
1 out of a possible 5
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S U B S C R I B E
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May 23, 2012

Hi Folks,

One summer, when I was a young pup, I found a Readers Digest Condensed Book in my grandparents house containing an account by Edmund Hillary about his and and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay's first ascent of Mt. Everest. I must have read it a half dozen times that summer, totally captured by the story. In spite of all the climbing I do and have done, I'm not an alpinist. I made the decision about 20 years ago that the risks simply weren't acceptable for me personally. That said, I do follow what's going on in the big mountains around the world. These past several days have been very eventful on the big mountain, perhaps at least as much so as the infamous 1996 and 2006 tragedies. Here's some of things that have been happening:

Russell Brice, owner of Himalayan Experience one of the prominent guide services on the mountain, decided that it wasn't safe and cancelled his expedition -

http://www.himalayanexperience.com/content/everest-2012-newsletter-17

Four climbers have been reported as dead descending the mountain -

http://abcnews.go.com/International/mount-everest-death-toll-missing/story?id=16401107#.T70lH3lYvHE

Here's a NY Times OP Ed piece by our own Freddie Wilkinson about the state of things on the big mountain-

http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/18/opinion/dont-climb-every-mountain.html

If you have trouble with the link, you can read it on the NEClimbs.com forum.

Ulie Steck, speed alpinist, summitted Everest via the Southeast Ridge from Nepal without the use of supplemental oxygen.

http://www.examiner.com/article/ueli-steck-summits-mount-everest-without-supplemental-oxygen

Boston Hiker's Body Finally Recovered:
Norman Priebatsch, 67, of Boston, lost his footing and fell into a crevasse while hiking with his son on April 1. Crews immediately began searching for him, but the search was suspended after conditions became too treacherous. Officials found Priebatsch's body Sunday inside the crevasse on Tuckerman Ravine.

TEXT http://www.sunjournal.com/news/1198843
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 16, 2020
These pictures and today's Report is actually from 1/15, Wednesday. I knew it was going to be snowing almost all day today and I would not be able to take any pictures, so I went up to the Notch yesterday, figuring that 24 hours would make very little difference. I was pleasantly surprised at how much ice survived the 3 days of record temps and rain. In spite of everything the weather threw at us, there is still ice to climb and while the Frankenstein Amphitheater looks even worse, there are still options. This is a time to be cautious due to possible delamination, but if you want to get out and climb, you can. Just be aware that the next several days will be VERY cold, so dress appropriately and beware of what will likely be some very brittle ice.
Huntington Ravine options - beware avalanche danger  
Repentance OUT Click to see route picture.
Standard Route OK but top is a mess again Click to see route picture.
Dracula kind of OK but top out bad! Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

New Guidebook Finally Available:
Jerry Handren's long-awaited new guidebook for rock climbing in the Mount Washington Valley and vicinity has finally come out. I haven't been able to get one in my own hands, but reports are that it is quite well done. You can get it at local climbing shops, Amazon or on his web sitter here:

http://www.northconwayrockclimbs.com

Instant Bug Report:
If I were you, and of course I'm not, I'd bring that bug-dope stuff with you if you're planning on being in the woods now. Or maybe even if you're going to be on the cliff! The mosquitoes are bad, the black flies are pretty bad and there are lots of ticks out there! You've been warned...

Peregrine Closings:
Wildlife biologists and volunteers in New Hampshire work very hard to identify the specific nesting locations used by theses state-listed Threatened raptors as early in the Spring season as possible, and to develop temporary closures that accomplish our Peregrine Falcon management objectives with minimal impact to recreational climbers and hikers.

This 2012 seasonal closures in New Hampshire are as follows:

Cathedral Ledge (part of upper left only), Bartlett, NH
Eagle Cliff (Spire area OPEN!), Franconia, NH
Frankenstein (lower south-facing wall), Harts Location, NH
Holts Ledge, Lyme, NH
Owls Head (right end only), Benton, NH
Painted Walls, Albany, NH
Rumney Rocks (Main Cliff), Rumney, NH
Square Ledge, Albany, NH
Woodchuck Ledge (upper right only), Albany, NH

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Instead of sport climbing I go bouldering. It's pure, and basically impossible to cheat. Bolts can't be used to manipulate the experience. Sure, I sometimes take a thicker crash pad but I still have to take the fall.
Johnny Blitz
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