NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:59a on 01/12/20 - Temperature: 52.9 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 52.9 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.654 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 100 %
IceCON 3. Ice generally available in the usual places, many climbs fat.
3 out of a possible 5
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June 14, 2012

Hi Folks,

Between the crappy weather last week and staying busy playing music for the annual Motorcycle Week celebrations down at Weir's, I haven't gotten in a heck of a lot of outdoor activity this week. The one exception was on Tuesday when I got out with my friends the Perez's. It started out quite sunny, but got a bit cloudy by the early afternoon. None of us had been climbing all that much over the past few weeks, so like last week we wanted to get in some more difficult stuff on toprope. I was feeling quite good at the start, but found myself a bit humbled by the end of the afternoon.

I've been climbing pretty well in the early part of the season. Some 8's, 9's and a few in the 10a/b range. Of course with one exception, these were all climbs I'd done before. This time I tried something quite a bit harder and found myself struggling quite a bit. Not unexpectedly, there's quite a bit of a difference between 10b and 11a, especially when it comes to steep-slab/thin face climbing. It really puts things in perspective to imagine how masters of the genera like Strand, Callaghan and that crew could find their way up routes with just the barest of crimper holds, faint dishes and minuscule edges. After an few modestly productive passes, the first visibly better than the second, I now know just how much work I have to do. While I managed Ego Trip 6 or 7 years ago, after a lot of effort and a brand new pair of shoes, I haven't attempted anything quite as hard since. Perhaps this is the challenge I need to get to another level. We shall see what the summer brings…

Tribute To Bill Holland:
A few days ago I got the following note from my friend Rob Adair-

"Bill Holland, a close friend of mine, perished in 1989 while descending Snowdome in the Canadian Rockies after climbing Slipstream. 21 years later his body was found a mile down the Columbia Glacier. His daughter, 6 at the time of his death, is writing a story of dealing with the aftermath of the tragedy, and dealing with the reality of his body recovery. She is trying to raise funds to complete the project. You can see her efforts and hopefully support her at this link: . Even if you can't afford to support the project I urge you to check it out and share it."

Here is a link to some more information about what took place -
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 16, 2020
These pictures and today's Report is actually from 1/15, Wednesday. I knew it was going to be snowing almost all day today and I would not be able to take any pictures, so I went up to the Notch yesterday, figuring that 24 hours would make very little difference. I was pleasantly surprised at how much ice survived the 3 days of record temps and rain. In spite of everything the weather threw at us, there is still ice to climb and while the Frankenstein Amphitheater looks even worse, there are still options. This is a time to be cautious due to possible delamination, but if you want to get out and climb, you can. Just be aware that the next several days will be VERY cold, so dress appropriately and beware of what will likely be some very brittle ice.
Huntington Ravine options - beware avalanche danger  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OK but top is a mess again Click to see route picture.
Dracula kind of OK but top out bad! Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Instant Bug Report:
The BugCON has remained at a 5 this week! White I was out one day when the bugs weren't too bad, with appropriate DEET, every other time it's been pretty awful. I would strongly urge bringing the bug dope everywhere you go for at least a while longer.

Peregrine Closings:
It's been a bad season for the Peregrine falcons in the area. As of last Friday closures for peregrine nesting at Rumney Rocks were removed as a result of confirmation of nesting failure this season. All of the posted closure signs should have been removed. That said, climbers and others will likely see and hear the falcons throughout the rest of the summer, but since there are no eggs or young to protect, there is no need to maintain a closure. That one was almost certainly due to heavy rains. The ledge they select for their eggs has failed in the past due to flooding. The nesting area at Dixville Notch was visited last Sunday and that pair has also failed post-hatch! Prior to that I visited the nesting area on Cathedral Ledge and that had been abandoned plus the pair at Woodchuck never did nest. Unfortunate...

This 2012 seasonal closures in New Hampshire are as follows:

Eagle Cliff (Spire area OPEN!), Franconia, NH
Frankenstein (lower south-facing wall), Harts Location, NH
Holts Ledge, Lyme, NH
Owls Head (right end only), Benton, NH
Painted Walls, Albany, NH
Square Ledge, Albany, NH

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Just a reminder - a guidebook is no substitute for skill, experience, judgement and lots of tension.
Charlie Fowler
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