NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 11:59a on 01/20/20 - Temperature: 20.0 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 20.0 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.059 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 22 %
IceCON 1. Climbs just coming in or only in upper elevations like Ravines.
1 out of a possible 5
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October 4, 2012

Hi Folks,

Am I bummed or what? after a great couple of days in the Gunks, I haven't been out climbing since! We've reached the point where everything is just seeping like crazy and the cliff has an overall green patina. This feels more like spring than fall to me. Shoot, it's even been crappy enough to put some restrictions on my mountain bike riding, and that says a lot. I feel really sorry for the folks who have come up here for the leaf-peeping. The leaves are nice, but they don't look too great in the clouds and fog!

I am hoping for things to start drying out soon, but it doesn't look too likely for this weekend. The long-range prognosis has Monday looking to be sunny, but with all the moisture in the system it's still going to be damp. I have been waiting patiently all week to get out on the rock, but it just wasn't going to happen. The good thing is that I have a bunch of web-development work that needed top be done, the bad is that I have to stay inside almost all week. Oh well, at least I'm making a little $$, and that always helps. That said, I am absolutely going out on the bike tomorrow, rain or shine. Al is not a happy camper if he has to stay inside this long!

I'm going to be away for 2 weeks starting next Wednesday. It's strange for me being away so much in a short period of time since I rarely go anywhere. This time I'm driving down south to see relatives in Georgia. None of us are getting any younger, so I figure if I don't see them soon I might never. I am planning on taking a bike and some climbing stuff so I hope to get in some fun along the way. I've heard a lot about Linville Gorge and Looking Glass so they are both kind of on my list. When I was a kid I went scrambling in Tallulah Gorge with my grandfather, so that's another possibility. From what I remember, vaguely, it's a very spectacular location. I'm hoping to have enough WiFi to post some Reports as I go along so stay tuned.

Tough Schist Review on
Thanks to Greg Gagne for his well-crafted review of Tough Schist, the new and long-awaited guidebook to rock climbing in Vermont. Check it out. It's clear to me that if you climb in Vermont, you'll want to get this book. Greg wrote a nice review of the Wild Country Helium cams last year and he's done a great job on this one as well.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 16, 2020
These pictures and today's Report is actually from 1/15, Wednesday. I knew it was going to be snowing almost all day today and I would not be able to take any pictures, so I went up to the Notch yesterday, figuring that 24 hours would make very little difference. I was pleasantly surprised at how much ice survived the 3 days of record temps and rain. In spite of everything the weather threw at us, there is still ice to climb and while the Frankenstein Amphitheater looks even worse, there are still options. This is a time to be cautious due to possible delamination, but if you want to get out and climb, you can. Just be aware that the next several days will be VERY cold, so dress appropriately and beware of what will likely be some very brittle ice.
Huntington Ravine options - beware avalanche danger  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OK but top is a mess again Click to see route picture.
Dracula kind of OK but top out bad! Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

American Alpine Club Events:
Sarah Garlick, the AAC Northeast Regional Coordinator, sent me some info about some upcoming events that I thought I'd pass along. It's really cool that there are is a bunch of stuff happening and the AAC is a part of it. Thanks to Sarah for her efforts.

** The North Face Speaker Series Conrad Anker slide shows

TNF Conrad Anker presents: Return to Meru High-altitude mountaineering demands one skill above all others: the ability to suffer. Mount Everest, which Conrad has climbed three times, is the peak that's always in the media, but more challenging mountains rise in the Himalaya, including India's ice-coated granite fang, Meru. Its East Face had defied climbers for two generations. The saga of Conrad's ascent of Meru's formidable east face, which had defied climbers for two generations, begins with a failed attempt in 2003, followed by a treacherous attempt in 2009, when an epic storm froze feet and forced retreat. Three years later, grit and determination brought Conrad and his team back to complete the climb, which Conrad regards as his most challenging.

Monday, October 15
7:00-9:00 PM
Higher Ground
Burlington, VT
More info (

** Reel Rock Film Tour - North Conway
Reel Rock
Thursday, November 1
8:00-10:00 PM
International Mountain Equipment
North Conway, NH

Tickets $10 at the door
Proceeds benefit the Northeast Live Your Dream Grant

Instant Bug Report:
The BugCON rating is at a pretty minimal 1.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

What we get from this is adventure and just sheer joy. And joy is, after all, the end of life.
George Mallory
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