NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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October 11, 2012

Hi Folks,

This week I don't have a heck of a lot to write about, at least as far as climbing goes, because unfortunately the weather basically sucked almost all last week. Fortunately for everyone around me, I did manage to get out on my mountain bike several times last week as the only exercise I was able to do. That's a sport I can do even if it's wet, unlike climbing of course. BTW I'm not in North Conway right now, I'm actually in a place where there isn't a whole lot of climbing - New York City. I'm actually on a road trip that starts here and will land me all the way down in Macon Georgia in a bit over a week!

Hopefully I will get in a bit of climbing while I'm on my way. I'll try and write about whatever I can manage to do on my trip. I'm planning on stopping at Looking Glass and perhaps Tallula Gorge if I have time. The latter is where I first went climbing and hard scrambling with my Grandfather when I was about 12 with a piece of hemp rope tied around my waist, so it has some real memories for me. But this trip is much less about climbing than it is about seeing friends and family that I haven't seen, in some cases 40 years. But I'm sure I'll do some interesting things and have an adventure or two, so stay tuned...
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

American Alpine Club Events:
The North Face Speaker Series Conrad Anker slide shows

TNF Conrad Anker presents: Return to Meru High-altitude mountaineering demands one skill above all others: the ability to suffer. Mount Everest, which Conrad has climbed three times, is the peak that's always in the media, but more challenging mountains rise in the Himalaya, including India's ice-coated granite fang, Meru. Its East Face had defied climbers for two generations. The saga of Conrad's ascent of Meru's formidable east face, which had defied climbers for two generations, begins with a failed attempt in 2003, followed by a treacherous attempt in 2009, when an epic storm froze feet and forced retreat. Three years later, grit and determination brought Conrad and his team back to complete the climb, which Conrad regards as his most challenging.

Monday, October 15
7:00-9:00 PM
Higher Ground
Burlington, VT
More info (http://thenorthface.inticketing.com/events/241393)

** Reel Rock Film Tour - North Conway
Reel Rock
Thursday, November 1
8:00-10:00 PM
International Mountain Equipment
North Conway, NH

Tickets $10 at the door
Proceeds benefit the Northeast Live Your Dream Grant

Instant Bug Report:
The BugCON rating remains at a minimal 1 now. Stay tuned, we'll be in the Ice Report before we know it.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


I was damn glad I was with George. He was solid. I told him of my confidence, and he replied that he felt the same way. I might be lousy on 5.10, but he reckoned I had a high survival potential.
Chris Jones
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