NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 5:29p on 03/02/21 - Temperature: 14.0 °F - Wind speed: 7.0 mph - Wind chill: 0.8 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.715 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 18 %
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
International Mountain EquipmentNorthEast Mountaineeringthe American Alpine ClubMount Washington Valley Climbers CooperativeEquinox Guiding Service LLC
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August 28, 2013

Hi Folks,

All the weather reports were for a wet week, but it really didn't turn out that way. I woke up every day to mornings that were totally cloudless. Clouds would build in through the afternoon, but here in the Valley we got no rain at all. I still had to water the garden every day. That is until yesterday (Wednesday)! Starting around noon it kept getting more and more humid/ As I was coming back from a MTB ride on some trails in the hills up off East Conway Road, we saw the clouds building and started hearing rumbles of thunder. The clouds darkened and thickened all afternoon and right at supper time, fortunately just after I took the burgers and grilled squash off the grill, the skies opened up. It's rained off and on all night, but the predictions are only for a "chance of showers". That's a good thing, since I'm supposed to help guide a big school group today! I have my fingers crossed.

Recently I mentioned some of the new routes at Humphrey's. The name for the then-unnamed route on the Geriatric Walls is now The Silent Treatment. Thanks to David Ianman for the suggestion. Joe Perez sent me the "official" descriptions of the two new routes around the right side of Humphrey's. I posted them in the Routes section on and here they are:
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 25, 2021
It really does feel a little more like mid-March than late February right now, tho this really has to do with a couple of sunny days with temps in the 40's. Of course that's not really a bad thing, as long as it stays cool at night and we don't get any rain. But stay tuned... In general tho the ice is in good shape right now, with a few exceptions where the climbs have been in full sun over the past couple of warm days. The thing to be aware of is that there are places where the ice is punky and snowcone-like or has become undermined. But as long as you are paying attention, you'll be OK. Frankly early to mid-March is really my favorite time to climb. There's nothing like those longer days, more moderate temps and plastic ice. And the occasional warm day when you can get out on some warm early-season rock! What's not to like?
Huntington Ravine IN  
Repentance questionable Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

--> Rope - 5.9 Directions: This climb is located about 240 feet to the right of the Wiessner route in a corner above a large flake leaning on a fallen tree. Just follow the trail around the cliff band, ducking under a large fallen tree and staying about 20' below the cliff. The flake is right where the trail joins the cliff and before it goes around a buttress.

Description: This route goes up the prominent dihedral above the oak tree.

Pitch 1: Climb small ledges to a short chimney below a large oak. A # 1 Friend can be used in the chimney. Climb to a ledge above the base of the oak. Continue up the aręte and dihedral to a two bolt anchor. 80 feet.

Gear: Small cam and draws

Descent: Rappel the route

History: Joe Perez, Judy Perez and Al Hospers. August 20, 2013

--> Even the Rain 5.8 Directions: This climb is located about 240 feet to the right of the Wiessner route in a corner above a large flake leaning on a fallen tree. Just follow the trail around the cliff band, ducking under a large fallen tree and staying about 20' below the cliff. The flake is right where the trail joins the cliff and before it goes around a buttress.

Description: Delicate lay-backing and careful foot work makes this an interesting climb. The upper crack in the dihedral requires small gear. At the second bolt look right and note the large area of rock that is a lighter color. If you look down you can see one of the flakes that came off the cliff from this area.

Ptich1: Climb ledges to a short chimney below a large oak. Climb to a ledge above the oak and traverse to the right . Follow bolts to the crack and dihedral. Climb the dihedral to a comfortable ledge with a two bolt anchor. 80 feet.

Gear: Normal rack

Descent: Rappel the route

History: Joe Perez, Al Hospers and Judy Perez. May 2013

NOTE - We'd all really like it if folks would climb these routes to confirm the grades.

Incorrectly Assembling Quickdraws:
You will remember the recent death of 12 year old Tito Traversa in Italy in July. Investigators have confirmed that it was due to using sport-draws that were incorrectly assembled. There is a lawsuit taking place and apparently manslaughter charges are being brought in the case! It's hard to understand manslaughter charges, but these are litigious days. Here is some info on the state of things -

Here is a link to a video that illustrates how this could have happened. It's worth having a look at, if nothing else so that it won't happen to you.

IMPORTANT - At this time we DO NOT know what brand of draws and biners were used, and there is no indication that the accident was due to failure of the actual equipment.

Cathedral Craggin' Classic:
It's back! The second annual Cathedral Craggin' Classic is coming up this September 13-15, 2013. This year the headquarters of the festival is the Glen Ellis Campground (, just up the road from Cathedral and Whitehorse, where all event activities — camping, slide shows, demo gear, vendor village, pig roast, and more — can happen all in one place.

Check out the AAC Craggin' Classic page for more details on the event. (

Reserve your tickets for the weekend now at the AAC online shop. (

Hope to see you in North Conway this September!

Best wishes,

Sarah Garlick
Northeast Regional Coordinator
The American Alpine Club

Instant Bug Report - BugCON 2:
Hardly any bugs out there right now unless it's in the evening or deep woods - maybe both. The BugCON rating stays at a tolerable 2. Enjoy it...

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Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

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Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Many have questioned the quality of this sort of achievement, deploring the use of pitons, tension traverses and expansion bolts, but the record speaks for itself. This is a technical age and climbers will continue in the future to look for new routes. There is nothing more satisfying than being a pioneer.
Allen Steck, justifying the 1st ascent of Sentinel's north face
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