NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 7:59a on 02/25/21 - Temperature: 29.2 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 29.2 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.731 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Rapidly - Humidity: 40 %
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
The ACCESS Fund, Protect America's ClimbingEquinox Guiding Service LLCInternational Mountain EquipmentSavage Mountain Gearthe American Alpine Club
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October 9, 2013

Hi Folks,

It's been a very busy week so far and I didn't get out climbing at all. Yes I know, boo hoo! I was going to climb on Sunday, but a web site that I host got hacked by some meanies and it took me most of the day to deal with the problems and get it back up running! The weather was darn good up here and it was hard to not climb, but I did get out on a nice MTB ride on Tuesday in the hills above Jackson. That said, I'm planning on making up for the lack of climbing this week. My friend George Hurley and I are making our bi-annual trek down to the Gunks on Thursday and staying through Monday. So if you see two old codgers wandering around on the carriage roads asking people where various climbs are, that will be us. Since we go down there so rarely, it always takes us the first several days to get our bearings. Yes I know that the guidebooks have these diagrams of various landmarks along the carriage roads, but I've never found them particularly easy to follow. And on top of that we're both old, so give us a break and help us find our destination. [grin]

We've both been watching the weather reports for the Gunks all week, hoping that we would get as nice a run of weather as we've had up here - with the exception of the storm that blew through on Monday. Right now tomorrow looks good, but Thursday and Friday are a crap shoot - 40 & 50%. The good thing is that you can usually find something to climb there, unless it's pouring, and things dry out fast. Saturday - Monday look good tho, so that's a plus.

We've been going down both spring and fall for several years and as you can imagine every time we have a couple of routes that we hope to get on. This time it's CCK, Neverland and Son Of Easy O. George was in on the FA of Neverland BITD and he wants to get on it again. I did it 20 years ago and I thought it was hard then, who knows what it will feel like now. [wry grin] As always we'll find other interesting things to climb by happenstance. Last year's surprise was Miss Bailey. Well, whatever we do will be fun, and of course that's all that matters.

Our plan is to get an early start on Thursday so we can get down there in time to do a warmup climb. We usually try to pick something out that's in the Uberfall area. 2 years ago it was Horseman, last year it was one of the first climbs you come to and it was a lot harder than it would appear from the grade. This time I am hoping for something a bit more moderate, just to get used to the different feel of the rock and protection. We'll figure it out when we get there tho.

In case you're interested, and I hope you are, George will also be giving his classic slideshow on "Early Desert Climbs" at Rock & Snow in New Paltz, NY this Friday October 11 at 8PM. If you haven't seen this I highly recommend it. The pictures are great and he has some wonderful stories.

BTW this is a real slideshow, shown via a real Kodak Carousel slide projector, as befits this event. It's going to be a gas so if you're in the area I hope you will come by and say hi.

Anyway, I'm going to try and post some pictures on the NEClimbs FaceBook page while we're down there. Stay tuned, 'cause it ought to be a gas.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 18, 2021
There is certainly a good crop of ice in the lower elevations right now, yielding some excellent climbing. That said, we can use some more moisture in the system to refresh what we have. The combination of continually cold temps and cloudy days hasn't really helped things grow. A couple of days of warmer weather while staying cold at night, low 30's and sunny and mid to low 20's at night, or perhaps a single day of rain would really help a lot. Who knows - considering that we're 2/3 of the way through February, that might actually even happen. On the positive side, we have a good snowpack and the days definitely are getting longer. I do love ice season, but I ReALLY love those warmer and longer March days when the sun is stronger and it's light 'till 5.
Huntington Ravine IN  
Repentance a tough send, tho it's been done  
Standard Route IN Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Lost & Found:
Todd from IME/IMCS in North Conway found a pair of shoes at Sundown Cliff a couple of days ago. If they are yours drop by or call the store, identify them, and they are yours.

Instant Bug Report - BugCON 1:
IIn spite of a couple of overnight frosts there are still some mosquitoes hanging around out there in the deep woods. [boo] While I figure they can't be around much longer, I'm still sticking with BugCON 1.

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92 Bow Lane
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Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

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Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

All ice is dangerous. Grade 4 pillars are pumpy. Grade 5 pillars are pumpy and dangerous. Except for certain rare days of triple-high biorythms and favorable planetary alignments, grade 6 is beyond reach.
Dougal McDonald
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