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IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
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November 7, 2013

Hi Folks,

I hate to admit it, but even for me some weeks are just slower than others. [LOL] This week I don't have any big ice-related news to report or especially entertaining adventures. I've just been riding my bike as much as possible and working out trying to get into shape for ice season. For me at least, climbing ice and getting around in the winter requires more stamina than rock climbing and summer hiking. Thus adding a bit to my fitness baseline will really help, especially for someone as close to over-the-hill as me.

I am planning on attending the Eastern Snow and Avalanche Workshop which is taking place this Saturday. I've been posting information about it on NEClimbs and in this newsletter over the past several months. I think it's incumbent on all of us that spend time in the mountains in the winter to know as much as we can about the conditions. I believe that it's getting pretty close to full, so if you'r interested I urge you to sign up right now. I hope to see you there. Below is the latest info I received from head Ranger Chris Joosen on Thursday:

=============================================

Looking forward to seeing all of you this weekend.  Really a great line up and evening for this Saturday's ESAW 2013.  Any last minute questions let me know and I'll do what I can to respond if I don't get shelled.

  - Bring a mug if you wish to keep the Frontside coffee hot.
  - This is last year on metal chairs I promise-I'll explain about 2014 on
  Saturday, but bring a cushion for your backside if you have trouble with
  metal folding chairs.
  - Some folks have found paper and pen handy for certain talks of
  interest.
  - We'll start right on time so please give yourself enough time to get
  through check in.  We'll have about 140 people so it may take a hair longer
  to get through the line than last year.  We'll have it stream lined with
  multiple people checking you in to help it go quickly.
  - Remember, If you are a member or worker in the list below bring along
  your membership information and get a $10 IME Gift certificate at
  registration.  As I mentioned before make it easy for our volunteers at the
  check in desk and bring something that easily passes the straight face
  test, a membership card, a current organizational publication with your
  name and address on it, etc.


American Alpine Club
National Ski Patrol
Professional Ski Patrollers of America
American Avalanche Association
Canadian Avalanche Association
Mount Washington Observatory
Have current American Mountain Guides Association Certification
Have taken or instructed an Avalanche course with AIARE certification in
the past 24 months

  - For those interested in hanging around on Sunday for some more
  avalanche related education and topics, AIARE is offering an Instructors
  Refreshers Course just a 100 meters from IME.  They are offering it to ESAW
  attendees whether you're an instructor or not.  The cost is $100.  If
  interested check out this link:

http://aiare.info/course_detail.php?recid=1557


Go to http://www.esaw.org/category/latest/
for Saturday's schedule.

And sign up here -

http://www.esaw.org/
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

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Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

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Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

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Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Every time I go out and do something, Hans panics and starts trying to beat me. He's like a dog humping your leg.
Dean Potter
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