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Over the past couple of weeks we've had a few showers come through, coupled with lots of days that looked and felt as if it was going to rain at any minute. However, it rarely rained and things have been very dry until today. I say that "almost" tongue in cheek since, tho it rained somewhat last night and all morning, it stopped around noon and hasn't rained since. I went out to check on my garden and when I stuck my fingers down into the ground I found that the ground really isn't soaked through. [sigh] Good for the climbing, that;s for sure. But not great for us gardeners and our lawns. On top of the rain It was also a cool morning - low 60's, but warmed up through the day, topping out in the mid 70's.
This is a really busy season for web stuff and music. I only seem to have time for a cople of hours of climbing here & there. I got in a nice morning of climbing on Cathedral With my friend Jeff last Friday. We repeated the new crack left of Sticks & Stones that Bob A & company cleaned and then took a run on AP Treat. Then we threw a TR on By The Way, a.k.a. Welton's Corner. This is a nice dihedral that George Hurley and Mike Khan did several years ago. Interestingly it had been done originally in 1986 by Loren Smith. It was named for his father, who had passed just before. The original rating was 5.9 (why are we not surprised) but the present consensus is 10a. I have to get up there soon and give it a run on lead. The gear looks pretty good and there is a bolt at the crux. While the normal line heads left onto the slab at the top, I also managed a direct finish. However I'm not going to try a lead that way 'till someone cleans off the moss that covers the top slab. Still, it's a cool like and one worth keeping clean.
Eitan Green:
I wrote about Eitan Green's tragic death on Rainier in last week's report. A number of folks wrote in to correct that I said he'd gone to Colby Sawyer. He actually went to Colby College in Maine. Sorry 'bout that. I also got an email from his mother Beth, thanking me for writing about her son. I have to thank her for raising someone who had such a positive affect on pretty much everyone he met. He will be missed. There will be a Celebration of Life tomorrow, Friday the 13th, at the base of Cathedral Ledge at the end of the day. Tho no official time has been set, I would figure between 5 & 6 sounds about right. Bring something to drink and grill if you like.
RIP Eitan
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
iffy
Standard Route
GREAT conditions
Dracula
IN & very fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
Instant Bug Report - 3:
Still hanging at the top of the scale, a mighty 5! Go out in the woods without bug dope at your own peril! IMO it's pretty bad right now. You have been warned!
Peregrine Closings
Peregrines are nesting at the Summit Cliff at Rumney. The entire Summit Cliff, including Northwest Passage and Flea Surgeon, is now closed. The Asylum on the left, and The Monolith on the right are also closed! Peregrines are nesting at the Summit Cliff at Rumney. The entire Summit Cliff, including Northwest Passage and Flea Surgeon, is now closed. The Asylum on the left, and The Monolith on the right are also closed!
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,
Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire
The whole life long you can climb on your own border, on your own limits, you can be satisfied all the time. I never want to stop climbing. I can't imagine to stop climbing because it lives in my brain somehow. It exists and it makes me happy.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
