NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 5:29p on 04/02/20 - Temperature: 41.5 °F - Wind speed: 11.0 mph - Wind chill: 39.1 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.432 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 75 %
IceCON 0. Minimal ice available for the hard core and mixed aficionados!
0 out of a possible 5
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July 18, 2014

Hi Folks,

I wanted to write about the stormy weather we've been having, all the fun climbing and guiding I've been doing lately - one of the rare periods that I've gotten out on rock 3 consecutive days, the precipitous decline in the bug population, the cool MTB rides I've been doing, the really cool music gigs I've done (5 last week alone), the fabulous strawberries that are coming out of the farm on West Side Road, the amazing super-moon over Ossipee Lake last Saturday night and all the other fun stuff that's been going on here in the Valley this summer. Instead I have to collect my thoughts and try to write about a tragic accident that took place last Saturday - one that claimed the life of local climber Brian Delaney.

I don't want to rehash everything so here are links to several articles about Brian and the accident:

I've talked with a number of people about what could have taken place, and at this time it is all educated guesses. All anyone really knows is that Brian was top-rope-soloing by himself on the Barber Wall in the vicinity of Double Vee. Prior to the accident he had done Jolt and from what I understand he had a static line attached at the top of the cliff. When he was found he had on his harness, the harness was intact, his belay/rappel device was on the rope and the rope was intact. Due to the fact that he was alone, and that the rope he was using was taken down and used as a part of the rescue system before it was examined in detail, it is highly unlikely that we will ever know exactly what took place. Unless he had a medical event (unlikely), the best guess is that he made some sort of mistake in his rappel setup. Whatever took place, the result was that he fell ~50' to the ground. There were people nearby who immediately came to his assistance. Conway Rescue showed up and a team from the local MRS arrived quickly. Although he was conscious at first, he succumbed to his serious injuries on the carry-out.

Brian was very involved in the North Conway rock scene in the 70's. He partnered with many of the well known climbers of the day, including Ed Webster and others. He and Ed did the first linkup of Women In Love and The Book Of Solemnity (5.11d) in 1975. Legendary New England climber Jimmy Dunn said "…Brian was perhaps the most talented climber in the NE, BITD." I only knew Brian in passing. He was living in Maine and wasn't around here all that much, or at least not on the days or routes that I do. Not that surprising as I don't climb all that hard. Over the past 10 years I don't think I saw him more than 6 or 8 times. I think that people who didn't know him well, kind of assumed that he wasn't climbing much - tho from what I've heard that is not the case. Even at 56 years old, Brian was a very strong climber and was our fairly often. He also climbed often at the Maine Rock Gym, where he had a number of friends. He is survived by his wife and 14 year old daughter.

There is talk of a memorial service here at Cathedral Ledge:

Saturday, August 16th 2014 Cathedral Ledge North Conway, NH.

I will try to post more information and a time as I get it.

R.I.P. Brian. It is very clear that you will be missed.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 27, 2020
The ice is done and I am no longer issuing reports. I had someone text me personally asking about the status of ice in the Ravines. Even if I know something, I am no longer going to answer those questions. IMO it is irresponsible to be climbing, other than maybe on a top-rope at this time. I know it's beautiful out there right now. I GET IT! But climbing is generally a group, or at least duo, activity. Everyone touches everything. And if I touch something of yours, that means I have touched everything that you have come in contact with for the past 14 days. I love climbing and the group dynamic as much as anyone, but climbing right now is simply not worth the risk. You simply cannot guarantee that you are 100% safe and put everyone in jeopardy.
Huntington Ravine OUT  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OUT Click to see route picture.
Dracula OUT Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Instant Bug Report - 2:
The blackfly population has tanked, the mosquitoes aren't too bad exempt in the deep deep woods and I haven't seen a tick in a month! HOWEVER the deerflys are brutal, if you're at a place where they are! Your Milage May Vary, but that's how it's been for me. Sure, I'm still carrying the bug dope, but I have rarely put it on over the past week. That means I'm dropping the BUGCon rating to a 2, at least for now. Enjoy it folks.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Then came a bigger fear. Not the threat of imminent injury, but the fear that if I didn't go back up, I would be a chickenshit forever.
John Sherman
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