NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 6:00a on 11/25/20 - Temperature: 21.4 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 21.4 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.418 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Steady - Humidity: 57 %
IceCON 0. Minimal ice available for the hard core and mixed aficionados!
0 out of a possible 5
International Mountain EquipmentMooney Mountain Guidesthe American Alpine ClubNew England Mountain GuidesThe ACCESS Fund, Protect America's Climbing
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March 12, 2015

Hi Folks,

As always, just when you think that Spring has Sprung, Ma Nature puts you in your place. After having some absolutely beautiful days this week, we reverted to winter overnight and this morning. We woke up to a dusting of snow, probably 1/4 inch here win the Valley and as much as 1Ē of powder higher in the Notches. Temps are in the mid-20ís, but the wind is really howling. Iíve seen gusts here at the ledges up as high as 25-30 mph, putting the wind chill at 14-10! I had thought about climbing something on Willard this morning, but after seeing it blowing up there while I was taking pics, Iím glad that reconsidered. I might go for a ride in the woods later today so I can stay out of the wind.

I spotted a large group at Willieís this morning and I felt a bit sorry for them. Iíve been up there many times on days like this or colder and frankly it looked like full-conditions. I just hope they had their puffy jackets and goggles. Check out the obviously swirling winds -


Speaking of spring, the warmth may give a much needed lift to the state of the ice. Iím seeing a lot of melting, and while itís not so good for some things, it can provide a refresh to all the stuff thatís getting sun-baked. Of course those that are in the full sun all day wonít make it very long. Diagonal and a lot of the Mordor ice came down yesterday and I donít think I would want anything to do with Repentance or Remission. In fact I wouldnít walk anywhere near any of that.

As you likely know Iíve really gotten into my new fat tire bike this winter. Itís a great thing to keep my fitness up this time of year and make sure Iím going to be able to jump right back into the MTB season, once the snow is off the trails. Some of my friends who are into it have been mentioning interesting places to ride and one told me that the Champney Falls trail was in great shape so I figured I would give it a try on Monday. Turns out that they were spot-on. Iím not that fast a rides, but with the exception of the couple of steep humps along the way, I was able to ride all the way up in less than 40 minutes. When I got to the falls I spotted a couple of folks setting up a TR on the left side so I walked into the place where the ice started on the floor and said hello. Turns out it was my friend, and master stonemason, Gary Jones with his wife out for an afternoonís fun. It was great seeing them both.


On the way up I hadnít seen anyone, but on the way down I met two 20-something young women in sweatpants and sweatshirts heading up the trail. They seemed a little underdressed considering, but hey - itís not my place right? The ride down was truly wonderful ride that I wish went on twice as long. Iíd love to find more rides like that one in this area.

Brad and I did Goofers on Tuesday morning and it was in great shape, with surprisingly thick ice at the bottom and plastic ice at the top. Even Super Goofer still looked OK, tho there was a V-thread below the ice alcove about 1/2 way up which looked to me as if someone had bailed! We brought Bradís new single 70 meter rope for the climb, knowing that we could easily tension left to the Super Goofer belay tree and come down the gully. Brad had this thought that it would make it all the way down on climberís-left, but I was pretty skeptical. I rapped first and when I got to where I could see the ends of the rope, they looked to me as if they werenít going to be that close. So I stopped and ran in a screw at a place where someone had put in a V-thread and let him come down. He looked at the ends and declared that he felt it was going to make it, with stretch. HMMM, I thought. Bradís got a bit of heft on me, so I figured I would send him down. (Let Mikey try itÖ) He went on down and it turns out he was right. He was able to get to the little rock/snow shelf just right of the gully. Go figure! I clipped in and followed and I was ďjustĒ able to get onto the shelf myself. Thatís worth knowing, tho you can always get off with a single 60 if you go to the tree.


Between ice climbing, xc-skiing and playing on the FT bike in the winter I really do enjoy living up here. If I didnít have all those activities to do I doubt I would still be living up here. The FT bike has been one of my better acquisitions of the past several years and Iím digging it. You can rent one for 1/2 or full day to check it out at Stan & Dan Sports or some of the other local shops. I highly recommend it.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective November 19, 2020
Ice is forming in Crawford Notch, but I didn't see anything that looks climbable yet. If temps stay chilly at night and we get some more snow up there I'm sure that will change pretty quickly. For those interested in taking a walk, I'm almost certain Tucks has climbable ice now. Bring your stubbies and tools with old picks tho, cause I'm pretty sure it will be thin.
Huntington Ravine UNKNOWN  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OUT Click to see route picture.
Dracula OUT Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

As always, here are a few interesting pix from this morning:


As always, more pix are on NEClimbs Ice Report and Facebook.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

As I hammered in the last bolt and staggered over the rim, it was not at all clear to me who was the conqueror and who was the conquered. I do recall that El Cap seemed to be in much better condition than I was.
Warren Harding
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