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I woke up this morning at 6 AM to bright sunlight and an almost balmy 34 degrees and by 8:30 it was almost 40! That’s an amazing change from what we’ve been experiencing for the past several months, and based on the weather predictions not at all what I expected. When I went to bed at 11 last night there was a huge green blob headed our way and I expected it to be raining this AM. Fortunately that was not the case, tho obviously things are starting to change, even as I write. So far we’ve managed to dodge the bullet, with regards to Spring thaws, but I’m not so sure that will be the case from here on out. PS - at 12:15 it’s 48 degrees folks!!!!
Yet another round of weather is on the way up from the South. With it is what prognosticators say will be a day of warmish rain. You can see it here:
That doesn’t mean that everything is going to come down, because it’s going to cool down as the front passes. However, it does mean that we are in for the change. Over this past week or so ice conditions have been amazingly good. The warmer days and cool nights have allowed the ice to refresh and even build in many places. What was hard and brittle, became more plastic for the most part - at least for climbs that aren’t in the full sun all day. However, a day of rain, even followed by a chill, will likely have a negative effect on many climbs. This is a time when extra care is needed when evaluating climbs. There will likely be climbs that have become undermined and in some cases detached from the rock behind them. This is especially the case in places where the rock is card in color, like Chia, Smear and the things on the right side of the Texaco Amphitheater. You also need to be hyper-aware of what is above you. The hangers that were well bonded all winter, are now suspect.
Unless things change very radically very quickly, this weekend and next will still provide some fairly good climbing, and several weeks more of brilliant climbing in the upper elevations. However this is a time to be more aware of what’s going on around us. When I stopped at the pull off below Crafwford Notch this morning to take a picture of Willeys Slide I heard some big stuff come off of Mt Willard behind me and I hear ice falling off on Cathedral and Whitehorse all the time now. I would definitely NOT walk along the cliff on Cathedral or Whitehorse for some time now. So, just be alert and you will be able to enjoy the spring ice climbing and be around to enjoy the fast approaching rock season.
Speaking of rock season, now is the time to get your rock gear in shape, get the shoes resoled, lube the cams and make sure that all your gear is ready to go.
Cannon Mountain ALERT:
There will be a major ski race at Cannon this March 27-29. All the parking areas used by climbers are being used by the ski area with shuttles running! This race is big enough that the lodge and most of the mountain will be closed to the public those 3 days.Here are links for more info:
BIG SALE at IME Friday, March 27:
There will be a BIG sale on much of the rental and demo gear at IME this Friday, March 27. Prices will be very very good, so be sure to drop by. In addition there will be sale pricing on new winter gear.
Be sure to tell 'em NEClimbs sent you!
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective April 24, 2024
It's all over for 2023/2024.
Huntington Ravine
OUT
Repentance
OUT
Standard Route
OUT
Dracula
OUT
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
As always, here are a few interesting pix from this morning:
As always, more pix are on the NEClimbs Ice Report and Facebook.
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
