NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 2:00p on 03/22/19 - Temperature: 44.1 °F - Wind speed: 8.0 mph - Wind chill: 42.0 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.013 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Rapidly - Humidity: 100 %
IceCON 3. Ice generally available in the usual places, many climbs fat.
3 out of a possible 5
New England Mountain GuidesThe ACCESS Fund, Protect America's ClimbingNorthEast MountaineeringInternational Mountain Climbing SchoolHyperlite Mountain Gear
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April 23, 2015

Hi Folks,

Good morning, good morning
Good morning, good morning
Good morning ah

Nothing to do to save his life call his wife in
Nothing to say but what a day how's your boy been
Nothing to do it's up to you
I've got nothing to say but it's OK

Good morning, good morning
Good morning, good morning

It’s Spring folks. Yup, that’s right, the snow is almost gone everywhere but on the Mountain, even overnight temps are above freezing here in the lower elevations, and the rock is, at least occasionally, dry. Well not so dry this week, but it’s getting there. I would say that 98% of the ice & snow on the cliffs is gone now, but I promise that there’s stuff here & there that you don’t see ‘cause it’s hidden in dark nooks & crannies. Remember the pics I showed from last Wednesday’s climbing at Humphrey’s, and that was a 70 degree day! Here’s a few pics of Cathedral & Whitehorse taken today:


A Note About MWV Mountain Biking:
There is lots to ride in the area without going on places that are problematic, like the Red Tail Trail off Hurricane Mountain Road. Sidehill, Sticks & Stones & Rattlesnake on the East Side are all in great shape, as is the new access to Outer Limits which is off the snowmobile corridor. Stay away from the Swamp Trail & the power lines because they are both a mess. The Electric Loop on the West Side is generally fine, with some muddy spots where it’s almost always muddy. My guess is that most of Ultimate Singletrack is dry as well. I'll even bet that the Mineral Site & most of Tent Boulder is fine too, if you can get across Weenie Gully. If you’re not sure what I’m talking about, pick up a copy of Peter Minich’s MTB trail map at any of the local bike shops. As far as shops go, I recommend Stand & Dan. Pat Ferland, who works there, is a great mechanic and excellent resource for riding in the Valley.

Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 21, 2019
It's been a wonderful ice season, but Spring is officially here folks. Thus the sun is strong so it's warm during the day, but it's cold at night. And of course that means that climbs in the full sun are crap, but anything in the shade can still be good and maybe even building a bit. Sure, Standard Route is still massive, but the ice isn't all that good IMO. I was up there today and thought the ice above the cave was punky! Climbs in the reflector oven that is the Amphitheater are a mess now and honestly in my mind it's not a smart place to be. We're entering a time when the best climbing will be up high in the Ravine. And of course the longer days make it a great time to be up there. From here on out I'm only going to be posting pictures of things I think are in climbable shape, and that's a dwindling supply.
Huntington Ravine IN mostly  
Repentance OUT Click to see route picture.
Standard Route climbable, but getting punky Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN - bring your snorkle Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Outdoor Food:
I was in Bagels Plus yesterday morning before my bike ride picking up some bagels for my son and me. Frank asked what I eat when I ride I said just my usual bars. He tossed me a rectangular block that was in a bowl with several others on the counter and said “Try this.” Frank is a climber, cyclist and outdoors kinda guy so like all of us he’s looking for stuff to eat when he’s out doing stuff and this is his take on an energy bar. It’s kind of a dense bagel with oats and all kinds of other stuff in it. It weighs a ton and tastes good, tho just a little on the dry side. Weight-wise it’s probably the equivalent of 3 Clif Bars. If you get them frozen, you can keep ‘em in the freezer ‘till you need one. It only takes about 30 minutes to thaw, and that’s sooner than when I would want my first snack on my average MTB ride. It won’t replace my goo-bloks, but it’s a great change from the Balance & Clif bars that I usually get. RECOMMENDED!


Disclaimer - yes these folks are sponsors, but that has nothing to do with why I recommend this product. I just like it! Try it and see what you think for yourself.

First Ascents - Supercrack to Acadia to Himalaya with a tribute to Brian Delaney:
Ed Webster will be presenting: First Ascents - Supercrack to Acadia to Himalaya with a tribute to Brian Delaney. This event will also benefit Eagles Bluff via the Clifton Climbers Alliance's gear raffle. Our sponsors (Alpenglow Adventure Sports, Acadia Mountain Guides Climbing School, Evo Rock + Fitness, Nomads Adventure and Active Wear) have donated much gear and new guidebooks!

Reservations can be purchased for $10 in advance at Evo Rock + Fitness Portland or at Nomads Adventure and Active Wear or $15 at the door.

This event will start at 6pm on Saturday, the 25th of April in the Luther-Bonney building of USM's Portland campus.

Come get a history lesson, see some amazing photographs, support access to Eagles Bluff and connect with your climbing community!


Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

To truly raise the standards of free climbing, you can't sacrifice style or purity for a higher number.
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