NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 3:30p on 06/25/22 - Temperature: 88.7 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 88.7 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.917 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 15 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
The ACCESS Fund, Protect America's ClimbingInternational Mountain Climbing Schoolthe American Alpine ClubNorthEast MountaineeringMount Washington Valley Climbers Cooperative
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November 12, 2015

Hi Folks,

I was coming back from the gym this morning (yes I did say the GYM, but thatís another story) when I spotted 2 flights of ducks heading in a southward direction in perfect Vís. Couple that with 2 days of rain, and another on the way, and you just have to figure that weíre at the end of fall on the way toward winter. Of course we did have a very nice weekend and a near-perfect Monday. Considering just how nice itís been, from the end of summer right through the fall, thereís not been a whole heck of a lot to complain about.

Last week I mentioned that the Perezís and I put up a new route on Mt Forist called Birthday Boy. We had figured it would come in at 5.9, but werenít sure. 2 friends of ours went up and did it the following day and confirmed the rating. I hope you will give it a shot if you are out there some time.

I got out onto the South Buttress of Whitehorse with my friend Bobby last Thursday for the first time in a while. I keep saying I want to get out there, but just donít seem to manage it. While I didnít get any pictures, I can assure you that it was another of those bluebird days we had been having. We climbed the classic linkup of Hotter than Hell and the Inferno crack, plus the topout. As always it was wonderful. I did HTH, Bobby did the crack and I did the finish. His comment about HTH was perfect; ďThat was a really thoughtful pitch.Ē I couldnít agree more. Itís just a 5.9, but one that has you thinking all the time. Of course the crack is great, and the finish is almost as good - slightly pumpy, but not too much. All in all a wonderful day, only marred by my loosing my favorite sunglasses on the walk out. If anyone is over there and finds a pair of red Julboís, Iíd really appreciate them back. I walked back in to look for them, to no avail. [sigh]

We are getting close to ice season and thus itís time for the annual and White Mountain report Fundraiser. I know itís a hassle to think about donating money to anything, and frankly I hate asking for $$, but I figure itís something that I need to do. Before long Iíll be making trips up to the Notches, taking my pictures and making sure that you all know just whatís going on with the ice. The weekly ice report is something that can make your life a lot easier, and even save you a lot of time and gas money, depending on how things are looking. For example, we had a great start to last year, and then we had a rain and warmup that took it all down. And then we had a real cool down in about 10 days, and it all came back. If you were reading the Report the week before Christmas and the one that came out Christmas day, yes I went up and took pictures on the afternoon of the 25th, you would have see that it wasnít worth the trip up here to climb. And of course if you read the first report of 2015 you would have known that things came back like gangbusters.

If you could, please take a minute out of your busy day to make a token $20 annual donation to support NEClimbs and the White Mountain Report. It takes a pretty good effort to get out there and take those pictures and process them every Thursday throughout the winter. And on top of that to keep you all up to date with what's happening year-round. In addition it actually takes $$ to keep the site going, maintain the weather station and the webcam. It's time consumingÖ besides, what it would be like without this weekly mailing, especially in the winter?

You can make your donation of any amount ON LINE. It's painless and you can use pretty much any credit card. Simply click the link below to make your contribution.

As always you can also contribute via check or money order for $20. Just make it out to NEClimbs and send it here:

92 Bow Lane
North Conway, NH 03860

The White Mountain Report newsletter has been put out consistently since 1998. I have archived almost all of the Reports from as far back as September of 1999 and you can read them online at any time! The current traffic on is well over 1,000 unique visits a day, has over 1.4 million monthly "hitsĒ. This funky little newsletter goes weekly out to over 1,200 subscribers every Thursday. PLEASE REMEMBER, tho itís certainly a labor of love, it's your contribution that makes this newsletter and the NEClimbs web site possible.

THANK YOU for your continued support...
On Monday I went to Longstack Precipice down in the New Durham - Alton area with the Perezís and George Hurley. It was yet another great day, starting out quite chilly, but warming to the mid-60ís in the sun by noon. Longstack is yet another of those hidden gems that we occasionally find in NH. While it was climbed in the 70ís and perhaps earlier, it generally remained a secret until 2011, when John Garlogh and his Chino crew discovered it and started wholesale development. By now there must be 100 routes, maybe more, of all shapes and kinds and probably something for almost everyone. Interestingly enough the cliff looks more like the Gunks than Cathedral or Whitehorse, with a fair number of cracks and horizontals. In addition itís more or less south facing which makes it a great destination in the early spring or late fall. Itís hard for me to give directions since Iíve only been there once, but itís almost exactly 7 miles from Wolfeboro off Rt 28. Jon Garlough published a guidebook, the "Chinos Guide - Climbing in the New Durham AreaĒ, and copies can be bought for $20 at IME in North Conway

George has been there several times and knew the easiest place to park and best way in. It was only about a 20 minute hike from our car, but the uphill to (and downhill from) the cliff was a bit treacherous due to the leaves on the ground. We got a late start, old folks you understand, and probably didnít get to the crag until about 11. By then the sun was fully on the cliff and it was very nice. We spent all of our time on the left side of the cliff this time. George had done Strychnine (5.9) a couple of times before and he led it for us again. I thought a couple of the moves were tricky, but as always he just floated them. I led pitch 2 while Joe & Judy had a go on it. As we rapped I threw a rope on a route just to the left called Ravenís Song. Apparently itís not in the book yet, but itís rated 5.7. After a quick lunch I led another one on the left called A Toltec Dream (5.7). I thought it was pretty nice, tho the easy slab sections were somewhat runout for the grade. The best part was the dike on the headwall right at the top. It was very neat. George followed it and Joe led it right behind us.

By this time it was 3:30 and I could see that the sun was getting ready to set behind the ridgeline across the way. I suggested that it might be a good idea to call it a day, and the others agreed. At this time of year it gets dark earlier and quicker than it does earlier in the summer. Other than some slips and slides on the leaves on the walk out, it was uneventful and we got back to the car just before dark.

A couple of thoughtsÖ There is a sandpit across the valley that is used as a shooting range. While we were there we heard quite a lot of shooting, including some which surely was semi-automatic. Itís not a problem, but it can be disconcerting. In all of our opinions, the grades of the climbs were a bit understated and there are definitely some runout sections on moderate climbs. Itís just something to be aware of. All in all itís another great place to climb that will rarely be busy and where you will certainly find something to get your attention. We all recommend it.

On another topic, we all decided to grab some dinner together and opted for Mexican. Someone had suggested El Centario. We thought it was good and the Margaritas were ample. Check it out if you have a chance.

Here are some pictures:


The riding this week hasnít been all that great, but Iíve taken some time to tune up my fat tire bike and gather up my stuff for winter riding. Kind of like getting your ice gear together!

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

If it weren't for egos, some of the greatest accomplishements of climbing would never have happened.
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