NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 11:29p on 07/04/22 - Temperature: 57.8 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 57.8 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.976 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 49 %
BugCON 4: almost too intense for climbing, DEET required
4 out of a possible 5
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December 10, 2015

Hi Folks,

OK, OK, OK, OKÖ I get it. Nobody is happy with the state of the climate right now. At least nobody who is into winter sports, like pretty much everyone I know who lives up here - and all you folks anxiously perusing this Report. And to be honest with you, tho Iím taking advantage of the state of our weather pattern as best I can, Iím not all that happy about it either. Just like you, I have my XC-skis, crampons, ice axes, screws and cold weather outerwear all ready to go. Shoot - Iíve even swapped out the lawn tractor and snowblower, to no avail. And that usually will do the trick! [sigh]

Well, as I have mentioned a number of times, all I can do is to take advantage of whatís given to me. And for now, thatís basically rock climbing and mountain biking. Last Saturday was so balmy that I went down to LongStack to climb with George Hurley. While the ground seemed crusty and a bit frozen in places in the shade, in the sun it was amazing. The crag is totally south facing so the sun was amazingly warm.


George had his eye on a line in the middle of the Indigenous Wall. Heíd been working it on top rope and wanted to try and lead it. While he did manage the lead, he didnít get it clean. I gave it a shot on TR and thought it was really hard, probably in the 10c range, certainly above my pay-grade! Unfortunately, after talking about it with some locals, it turned out that the middle of the route crossed an existing line, so that oneís off the table. Pretty cool that heís still making it happen at 80 tho.


When I was rapping off I noticed a line just to the left that looked appealing. There was one other party at the cliff and I asked what they thought. They said it was called The Stroke, rated at 5.9, so I decided to give it a shot. The start that goes up to a nice ledge was easy enough. The next bit required a 12í piece of fairly steep friction, with no gear. [hmmm] I decided to sling a small tree just in the hope that if I slipped off I ďmightĒ not go to the ground. It took me a few minutes to find the exact combination of nubbins and crimpers, and once I got it I happily clipped the bolt. The next moves to a horizontal about 12 feet higher were almost as hard, but if I fell off at least I wouldnít go to the ground. Some more thin climbing continued up to the headwall. There was no gear under the headwall and you have to make a move to the right to get to a corner where you can get in some gear. While the rest is steep, you can get good gear in some horizontals and the copout isnít too bad - especially if youíre willing to grab a couple of bushes on the right! [wry grin] Looking at the book later I noted that itís rated 5.9+ R. Iím not so sure about the +, but I do agree with the R.

We walked out on the ATV trail, all the way past the shooting range/pit. The whole time we had been climbing there were lots and lots of people shooting. Iím not much of a gun person, so this kind of makes me uncomfortable. Itís certainly something that makes the climbing there ďdifferentĒ from any other place I know. If the weather continues to stay warm, as is predicted, I will likely go back this coming weekend. I will happily take whatever outside activities I can find this time of year.
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92 Bow Lane
North Conway, NH 03860

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span class="reportSectionHeader">VALLEY CYCLING:
The riding is still quite nice here in the Valley. There are a few muddy patches here & there, but all in all things are holding up very well. I rode Sidehill, the Knot, Rattlesnake and Sticks & Stones last weekend and earlier this week and all are fine. If just have an hour and youíre looking for a real pump, check out the Mt Cranmore access road. It will take you almost to the top of the mountain with some really sustained climbing - 50 minutes up, 10 minutes down! You access it by riding behind the Fitness center and looking for an obvious dirt road on the left. Try not to leave your lungs on the side of the road!


Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

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Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

If you want to climb it badly enough, you will. So... why bother ?
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