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I’m going to make this short and sweet because my phone is ringing off the hook, my text messages are filling up and my email basket is overflowing. Everyone wants the answer to the question; “IS THERE ICE?” And the answer, after a day of rain, a night of temps in the 40’s and a morning of temps in the upper 40’s (even up in the Notches) is a resounding YES VIRGINIA, THERE IS ICE. And YES THERE WILL BE AN ICE FEST!!!!!
Needless to say, we did take a hit from this crazy weather, but it wasn’t nearly as bad as any of us expected. Of course Diagonal fell down, for the 4th time this year, but pretty much all of the larger climbs hung on - so to speak. Golfers, Black Pudding, Dracula, Standard, Dropline all are still there. Even the North End of Cathedral looks like it’s reasonable. I wouldn’t walk under the middle part of Cathedral Ledge (Repentance or Remission), try to climb the stuff in the Frankenstein Amphitheater or the left face of Willard, but that’s not at all surprising.
All that said, check out the MWV weather report below. It’s going to start cooling down tonight and going to stay that way through the weekend. I was talking to some of my guide friends like Bayard Russell and Marc Chauvin in the Frontside this morning and the consensus is that things will be JUST FINE for the weekend. You just want to take a bit more caution checking out how well things are bonded and be extra careful on the top outs and you should be OK. Of course YMMV, and there are no warranties, either implicit or explicit in this Report. [wry grin]
ICE FEST 2016:
February 5-7, 2016 here in the Mount Washington Valley in North Conway, NH. We are super psyched to have another killer festival for the climbing community...filled with demos, clinics, parties, shows, good food, and more! Check it out and keep up to date at http://www.mwv-icefest.com. You can also Check out the downloadable schedule here: http://www.mwv-icefest.com/wp-content/uploads/2016_IceFestSchedule.pdf
NOTE - There will be an additional couple of HUNDRED climbers in the Valley and Notches this weekend for the Fest. Please be prepared to share the climbs and be careful.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 21, 2019
It's been a wonderful ice season, but Spring is officially here folks. Thus the sun is strong so it's warm during the day, but it's cold at night. And of course that means that climbs in the full sun are crap, but anything in the shade can still be good and maybe even building a bit. Sure, Standard Route is still massive, but the ice isn't all that good IMO. I was up there today and thought the ice above the cave was punky! Climbs in the reflector oven that is the Amphitheater are a mess now and honestly in my mind it's not a smart place to be. We're entering a time when the best climbing will be up high in the Ravine. And of course the longer days make it a great time to be up there. From here on out I'm only going to be posting pictures of things I think are in climbable shape, and that's a dwindling supply.
Huntington Ravine
IN mostly
Repentance
OUT
Standard Route
climbable, but getting punky
Dracula
IN - bring your snorkle
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
ACCIDENTS:
There were 2 accidents last week. I don’t have time to rehash them here, but you can read about them on NEClimbs.com or on our FaceBook page. One on Hitchcock and the other on Pegasus. It’s worth reading the reports on them if you get a chance.
VALLEY CYCLING:
Before the rain the fat tire riding was fantastic. It’s really soft and wet now so please don’t ride until things firm up, hopefully by Saturday. FWIW 2 local riders rode up the Tucks Trail, all the way into the ravine and back down the trail on Tuesday! It is not illegal, so I expect to see this happen again as soon as we get a little more snowpack. In addition a Red Bull athlete rode up the Auto Road on Wednesday to the summit in 1:20! This was a part of a sponsored event that was filmed by a helicopter and not allowed otherwise. Still it was pretty cool. I can’t wait to see the pictures.
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
