NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
Savage Mountain GearInternational Mountain Climbing SchoolEquinox Guiding Service LLCBagels PlusInternational Mountain Equipment
S U B S C R I B E
Like reading the White Mountain Report every week? Why not get it delivered to your e-mailbox every Thursday? All you have to do is subscribe. It's fast, painless, and best of all it doesn't cost you a dime!
CLICK HERE...

May 6, 2016

Hi Folks,

What do I have to say this week? I can encapsulate it all in one word, and one word only - RAIN!!!! That’s right, it has rained virtually all week. It started on Sunday afternoon, and continued basically nab ate, at least in drizzle mode, until Friday morning. And from what I understand we’re gong to get some more drizzles Friday night and the chance of showers again Friday night into Saturday. SIGH br />
The cliffs are definitely on the damp side for anything other than aid, at least IMNSHO, so you might want to haul out the hiking shoes or some rain gear to go along with your spring cycling experience. Of course we’ve been fortunate so far, but it’s a bit on the frustrating side for me, since every time the weather cooperates, I have a rehearsal or out of town gig. Well I know that’s going to change soon enough, so I have something to look forward to. Stay tuned… br />
FRIENDS OF THE LEDGES SPRING CLIFF CLEAN-UP:
SUNDAY, MAY 15
1:00 PM br />
?Meet at the kiosk at Cathedral Ledge br />
It's that time of year where our beloved cliffs need a little TLC. All are welcome, and please invite others. A casual BYO-everything cook-out (drink, chips, food for the grill) will follow in the early evening at the kiosk area at the base of Cathedral (or head to Flatbread for plan B rainy day scenerio). Should be great afternoon! br />
Clean Up Objectives are (and they are subject to change): br />
Second coat of paint on the blazes for the approach trails.
Take down the signs marking the approach trails and paint.
Replace missing approach signs (if supplied by State Park).
Spruce up the kiosk with a fresh coat of paint.
Leaf blow/raking of trails where needed.
Picking up any trash from winter.
If someone was ambitious, we could reblaze the Bryce path. br />
Please wear proper work attire and work gloves of your choice. br />
Friends Of The Ledges is a climbing stewardship organization in the eastern White Mountains of New Hampshire and Maine.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine numerous options  
Repentance iffy  
Standard Route GREAT conditions Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN & very fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

PETZL DIRECT CONNECT REVIEW:
If you get a few minutes, check out the out the review of this new Petzl product on the NEClimbs.com web site written by guide Matt Shove. I’ve been using the double version of this device since last winter and I think it’s a pretty cool thing.

http://www.neclimbs.com/index.php?PageName=review&ReviewID=20160428
INSTANT BUG REPORT: Bug CON 0
While there are mosquitoes and blackflies out there, they don’t seem to be biting up here in the Valley quite yet. After this rain tho I’m sure that’s going to change, so keep the DEET handy. Ticks are certainly around and the experts are expecting a pretty bad season so be sure to check carefully after any outdoor efforts!

VALLEY CYCLING:
Overall it’s still pretty good and not much mud. The reality is that it’s been dry so long, and we’re only getting drizzles, that it’s not that muddy. I’d say that most everything is still pretty darn good. In addition there is a new trail that’s just gone in on the Marshall Conservation Land that’s worth checking out. It starts down low on the right side opposite the Shumway switchbacks sign. Give it a go and help pack it out.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Breaking into a new area of climbing while remaining safe is probably sort of like practicing religion. There's no best way to do it, and if you screw up, you're going down...
Nate Beckwith
NEClimbs on Facebook
NEClimbs on Facebook
RSS Reader Feed
RSS Feed for NEClimbs, the New England rock and ice climbing resource
The ACCESS Fund, Protect America's Climbing
Mount Washington Valley Climbers Cooperative
Friends Of The Ledges
the American Alpine Club
Mooney Mountain Guides
Sponsors & Donors
View Current List