NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 3:59a on 01/23/20 - Temperature: 10.9 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 10.9 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.217 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 87 %
IceCON 2. Some trade routes are climbable, even in lower elevations.
2 out of a possible 5
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May 6, 2016

Hi Folks,

What do I have to say this week? I can encapsulate it all in one word, and one word only - RAIN!!!! Thatís right, it has rained virtually all week. It started on Sunday afternoon, and continued basically nab ate, at least in drizzle mode, until Friday morning. And from what I understand weíre gong to get some more drizzles Friday night and the chance of showers again Friday night into Saturday. SIGH br />
The cliffs are definitely on the damp side for anything other than aid, at least IMNSHO, so you might want to haul out the hiking shoes or some rain gear to go along with your spring cycling experience. Of course weíve been fortunate so far, but itís a bit on the frustrating side for me, since every time the weather cooperates, I have a rehearsal or out of town gig. Well I know thatís going to change soon enough, so I have something to look forward to. Stay tunedÖ br />
1:00 PM br />
?Meet at the kiosk at Cathedral Ledge br />
It's that time of year where our beloved cliffs need a little TLC. All are welcome, and please invite others. A casual BYO-everything cook-out (drink, chips, food for the grill) will follow in the early evening at the kiosk area at the base of Cathedral (or head to Flatbread for plan B rainy day scenerio). Should be great afternoon! br />
Clean Up Objectives are (and they are subject to change): br />
Second coat of paint on the blazes for the approach trails.
Take down the signs marking the approach trails and paint.
Replace missing approach signs (if supplied by State Park).
Spruce up the kiosk with a fresh coat of paint.
Leaf blow/raking of trails where needed.
Picking up any trash from winter.
If someone was ambitious, we could reblaze the Bryce path. br />
Please wear proper work attire and work gloves of your choice. br />
Friends Of The Ledges is a climbing stewardship organization in the eastern White Mountains of New Hampshire and Maine.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective January 16, 2020
These pictures and today's Report is actually from 1/15, Wednesday. I knew it was going to be snowing almost all day today and I would not be able to take any pictures, so I went up to the Notch yesterday, figuring that 24 hours would make very little difference. I was pleasantly surprised at how much ice survived the 3 days of record temps and rain. In spite of everything the weather threw at us, there is still ice to climb and while the Frankenstein Amphitheater looks even worse, there are still options. This is a time to be cautious due to possible delamination, but if you want to get out and climb, you can. Just be aware that the next several days will be VERY cold, so dress appropriately and beware of what will likely be some very brittle ice.
Huntington Ravine options - beware avalanche danger  
Repentance building well Click to see route picture.
Standard Route OK but top is a mess again Click to see route picture.
Dracula kind of OK but top out bad! Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

If you get a few minutes, check out the out the review of this new Petzl product on the web site written by guide Matt Shove. Iíve been using the double version of this device since last winter and I think itís a pretty cool thing.
While there are mosquitoes and blackflies out there, they donít seem to be biting up here in the Valley quite yet. After this rain tho Iím sure thatís going to change, so keep the DEET handy. Ticks are certainly around and the experts are expecting a pretty bad season so be sure to check carefully after any outdoor efforts!

Overall itís still pretty good and not much mud. The reality is that itís been dry so long, and weíre only getting drizzles, that itís not that muddy. Iíd say that most everything is still pretty darn good. In addition there is a new trail thatís just gone in on the Marshall Conservation Land thatís worth checking out. It starts down low on the right side opposite the Shumway switchbacks sign. Give it a go and help pack it out.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

The vias normales had perfect lines but new rock was the essence of climbing for us; throwing loose holds over the shoulder, feeling the exposed grains crush like sugar on footholes....
Paul Pritchard
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