NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 6:59a on 03/23/19 - Temperature: 33.9 °F - Wind speed: 2.0 mph - Wind chill: 28.5 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.164 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Rapidly - Humidity: 60 %
IceCON 3. Ice generally available in the usual places, many climbs fat.
3 out of a possible 5
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July 3, 2016

Hi Folks,

So itís the 4th of July weekend and things have been totally and completely crazed up here in the Valley all week. I got in some great rides, climbed at Lost Horizon with friends earlier in the week (see below), had a fantastic gig with my horn band in Exeter on Thursday and have generally been enjoying the summer. I guess you could call it ďliving the dreamĒ. Except that I had to deal with some absolutely heinous Javascript programming for an old client on a couple of days when I would rather have playing been outside.

Locals have been wondering if the Schartnersí would be opening the strawberry fields for picking this year. The normal sign had been taken down, tho the hired pickers would out there doing their thing. they finally opened to the public early in the week and I must say that they are amazing. If you havenít done that, itís worth the time. And if you donít want to pick, you can buy them for $6.50 for a generous pint. Itís one of the things that I look forward to every year.

CLIMBING THIS WEEK:
As I said, I got to the lovely Lost Horizon Crag, off Passaconaway Road near the Kanc, with the Perezís and Brad. What a delightful place to climb. I hadnít been there since I guided there one day last spring. Itís in great shape and well worth the short drive and 15 minute approach. And then afterwards you can head down to a quick cool-off in the Swift River. And donít forget that you will need to have a parking pass for the lot right across from the trailhead. If you donít have an annual one you can purchase a day-pass right there. We did all the moderates on the left side and topped the 5.10 corner. Several hours of really good fun. [big grin]

REGARDING THE TREEFALL OVER LOWER REFUSE:
A crew of local climbers, guides and associated groups like Friends of the Ledges and Mountain rescue Service got together this morning (Monday) to clear the loose blocks and tree off the ledge above Browns Fist/Lower Refuse. Kudos to all who stepped up! That said, there is assuredly some amount of debris, limbs, dirt remaining on these climbs. A bit of heavy rain will help clean it up, but in the meantime be aware! FWIW the original tree that fell down, starting all this activity, is still in the middle of the trail right below AP Treat. I cleaned up some of the loose branches & stuff, however, IMO this is something that needs to be addressed by the Echo Lake State Park people (Erik Nelson). In addition I noticed that there is still some stuff up on the little ledge above Sticks & Stones, so just be aware. I did not get a good look at the bolt(s) on S&S or AP, so if you are going to climb them, look carefully before you climb. Regardless, itís lots better than it was!

IME NAMED ONE OF THE TOP 25 OUTDOOR STORES IN THE US:
Thatís right folks, IME is not just good, itís one of the best!!!

http://gearpatrol.com/2016/06/20/best-outdoor-stores-america/#ime
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 21, 2019
It's been a wonderful ice season, but Spring is officially here folks. Thus the sun is strong so it's warm during the day, but it's cold at night. And of course that means that climbs in the full sun are crap, but anything in the shade can still be good and maybe even building a bit. Sure, Standard Route is still massive, but the ice isn't all that good IMO. I was up there today and thought the ice above the cave was punky! Climbs in the reflector oven that is the Amphitheater are a mess now and honestly in my mind it's not a smart place to be. We're entering a time when the best climbing will be up high in the Ravine. And of course the longer days make it a great time to be up there. From here on out I'm only going to be posting pictures of things I think are in climbable shape, and that's a dwindling supply.
Huntington Ravine IN mostly  
Repentance OUT Click to see route picture.
Standard Route climbable, but getting punky Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN - bring your snorkle Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

2016 PEREGRINE CLOSINGS:
I received the following from Chris Martin - NH Audubon biologist.

Temporary access restrictions are posted at the following five New Hampshire cliff sites in 2016:

Eaglet Spire (and adjacent walls), Franconia, NH
Holts Ledge, Lyme, NH
Painted Walls, Albany, NH
Rumney Rocks (Summit Cliff and nearby), Rumney, NH
Woodchuck Ledge (right/north end only), Albany, NH

Peregrines are present at a number of additional cliffs where no closures have been posted because recreational use is minimal. Climbers are advised to alter plans, and report the incident, if you encounter aggressive falcons during a climb.

All areas will be open effective August 1.

NOTE: There are birds on Whitehorse in the center forested section above Echo Roof, but there are currently no restrictions on Cathedral or Whitehorse this year.

INSTANT BUG REPORT: Bug CON 4
Sticking at the 4 for the time being. I keep hoping it will go down, but not so far folks. Keep an eye out for this nasty ticks & deer flies too.

VALLEY CYCLING:
The reroute to the Sidehill Trail on the East side is very nice. Iíve ridden it several times this week and highly recommend it. The old trail was absolutely a mess, only the young studs will miss it, and it is a great addition. Check it outÖ

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,


Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


Vy can't ve chust climb !
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