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While we did have a little weather come through this week, unfortunately it didn’t bring the rain we do desperately need. According to the weather pontificators we need 5+ inches of rain to get up to the average we would like to see. And needless to say it would be good if that didn’t happen all at once!
The lack of rain is evidenced in the lack of drips here and there in places that normally drip a bit. Places like the start of Tree Keys, the step-over below the arete on High Steppin’ at Humphrey’s and Shifty Eyes among others. This is a great time to do climbs like that - or even Three Birches! The Saco is generally low and many places on the mountain bike trails that are usually muddy are dry. While the fire danger has generally been Moderate, please be very careful with campfires and other fire making materials. I remember a few times over the past couple of years when we have had forest fires in the Valley, and it was pretty scary. No one wants another episode like that!
My regular partners were unavailable this week, so I called someone who I’ve known for some time, but have never climbed with, Frank Dalmeyer. Frank and his wife Carol-Ann own the great local bagel & coffee shop, Bagels Plus. They are great people and I consider them friends. I know Frank climbs very well and gets out more often than I do, so it was an easy decision to get out with him for the afternoon. I’d been wanting to go to Humphreys and do Daddy’s Got New Shoes, a climb I and the Perez’s put up on the Geriatric Walls many years ago. It’s a 5.7 with good protection and a couple of interesting moves. I was surprised to see how much moss had grown on it in tech years since I did it last. I saw no indications that it had been climbed this year and the nuts on the anchor were loose, so we tightened them down.
After that we went down to Old Crow, which Frank had never done, and he gave it a shot. Tho well protected, as always the crux move is difficult to decipher and that’s one of the reasons we rated it a 9! It took him a little while to figure it out and just as he pulled it, he got stung by a wasp which had a nest in a crack just above the crux bolt! It got him right on the chin and was very painful. He managed to finish the climb by staying to the right in the corner, but it was really awkward. Needless to say, if you go over that way I suggest that you avoid that climb!
Strangely enough there was a carabiner on the chains at the anchor. If it belongs to you send me a message with a description and I’ll get it back to you. I wanted to follow Old Crow, but decided that wasn’t a very good idea so I led High Steppin’ instead. I’ve always liked that climb, especially the moves up and over the arete.
All in all it was a great afternoon of climbing, and very nice to get acquainted with Frank in a different way. We’ve talked a lot over the years and have ridden mountain bikes together, but never climbed. It’s always nice to share a rope with a friend, and I’m sure we will do it again.
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
iffy
Standard Route
GREAT conditions
Dracula
IN & very fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
2016 PEREGRINE CLOSINGS:
All areas are now open! Thanks to all who observed the restrictions. Enjoy the freedom to climb wherever you like.
INSTANT BUG REPORT: Bug CON 2
As one would expect, there are still mosquitoes here and there and some ticks to be found in thick bushy areas. However, we’re in pretty good shape up here for the time being. Enjoy it!
VALLEY CYCLING:
Last weekend was the annual NEMBA Trail Weekend. There were many people in town putting in work on the trails, riding and enjoying an evening BBQ. Unfortunately, as always, I was working and couldn’t partake. However my understanding is that it was stellar. They put in additional work at the Marshall Conservation Trails and it shows. It it the premier area in the Valley at this time and I highly recommend riding there, if you haven’t already.
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,
Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire
When the slab cut loose, my mind calculated trajectories, analyzed terrain, and fed me its conclusions: no way out, you are going to die. This conclusion seemed to free me to experience the fall. Tumbling, catching air, then the loudest sound I've ever heard - probably the sound of both legs breaking or how to get hit by a Mack truck.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
