NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 3:29p on 04/03/20 - Temperature: 53.9 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 53.9 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.720 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 100 %
IceCON 0. Minimal ice available for the hard core and mixed aficionados!
0 out of a possible 5
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August 4, 2016

Hi Folks,

While we did have a little weather come through this week, unfortunately it didnít bring the rain we do desperately need. According to the weather pontificators we need 5+ inches of rain to get up to the average we would like to see. And needless to say it would be good if that didnít happen all at once!

The lack of rain is evidenced in the lack of drips here and there in places that normally drip a bit. Places like the start of Tree Keys, the step-over below the arete on High Steppiní at Humphreyís and Shifty Eyes among others. This is a great time to do climbs like that - or even Three Birches! The Saco is generally low and many places on the mountain bike trails that are usually muddy are dry. While the fire danger has generally been Moderate, please be very careful with campfires and other fire making materials. I remember a few times over the past couple of years when we have had forest fires in the Valley, and it was pretty scary. No one wants another episode like that!

My regular partners were unavailable this week, so I called someone who Iíve known for some time, but have never climbed with, Frank Dalmeyer. Frank and his wife Carol-Ann own the great local bagel & coffee shop, Bagels Plus. They are great people and I consider them friends. I know Frank climbs very well and gets out more often than I do, so it was an easy decision to get out with him for the afternoon. Iíd been wanting to go to Humphreys and do Daddyís Got New Shoes, a climb I and the Perezís put up on the Geriatric Walls many years ago. Itís a 5.7 with good protection and a couple of interesting moves. I was surprised to see how much moss had grown on it in tech years since I did it last. I saw no indications that it had been climbed this year and the nuts on the anchor were loose, so we tightened them down.

After that we went down to Old Crow, which Frank had never done, and he gave it a shot. Tho well protected, as always the crux move is difficult to decipher and thatís one of the reasons we rated it a 9! It took him a little while to figure it out and just as he pulled it, he got stung by a wasp which had a nest in a crack just above the crux bolt! It got him right on the chin and was very painful. He managed to finish the climb by staying to the right in the corner, but it was really awkward. Needless to say, if you go over that way I suggest that you avoid that climb!

Strangely enough there was a carabiner on the chains at the anchor. If it belongs to you send me a message with a description and Iíll get it back to you. I wanted to follow Old Crow, but decided that wasnít a very good idea so I led High Steppiní instead. Iíve always liked that climb, especially the moves up and over the arete.

All in all it was a great afternoon of climbing, and very nice to get acquainted with Frank in a different way. Weíve talked a lot over the years and have ridden mountain bikes together, but never climbed. Itís always nice to share a rope with a friend, and Iím sure we will do it again.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 27, 2020
The ice is done and I am no longer issuing reports. I had someone text me personally asking about the status of ice in the Ravines. Even if I know something, I am no longer going to answer those questions. IMO it is irresponsible to be climbing, other than maybe on a top-rope at this time. I know it's beautiful out there right now. I GET IT! But climbing is generally a group, or at least duo, activity. Everyone touches everything. And if I touch something of yours, that means I have touched everything that you have come in contact with for the past 14 days. I love climbing and the group dynamic as much as anyone, but climbing right now is simply not worth the risk. You simply cannot guarantee that you are 100% safe and put everyone in jeopardy.
Huntington Ravine OUT  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OUT Click to see route picture.
Dracula OUT Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

All areas are now open! Thanks to all who observed the restrictions. Enjoy the freedom to climb wherever you like.

As one would expect, there are still mosquitoes here and there and some ticks to be found in thick bushy areas. However, weíre in pretty good shape up here for the time being. Enjoy it!

Last weekend was the annual NEMBA Trail Weekend. There were many people in town putting in work on the trails, riding and enjoying an evening BBQ. Unfortunately, as always, I was working and couldnít partake. However my understanding is that it was stellar. They put in additional work at the Marshall Conservation Trails and it shows. It it the premier area in the Valley at this time and I highly recommend riding there, if you havenít already.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

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Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

I wouldn't last 30 minutes climbing solo.
Bradford Washburn
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