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We've had some pretty variable weather this past week that's for sure. Heavy snow, rain, warm, cold, freezing rain, sleet, hail, you name it. And while conditions are most certainly weird in places, there is absolutely stuff out there to climb. Needless to say the cold that came in Wednesday night sure helped out a lot and I'll bet that by Friday we're going to be in great shape.
There are some places that still aren't very good yet, or that simply haven't come in at all. A good example of the latter is the Fang area. It looks more like late March, than early January. And while there is ice there, the main portion of Pegasus isn't climbable yet.
Wondering about how much snow we got from the big storm here in the Valley? The measurement was 15+"!
span class="reportSectionHeader">DREAMS ARE NOT GOALS, GOALS ARE NOT DREAMS:
Here's a great article by master climber Steve House. Well worth the read IMO.
RUMNEY'S FINAL FRONTIER:
Access Fund and Rumney Climber's Association (RCA) are excited to announce that Rumney's Final Frontier has been permanently protected.
In just under a year, the climbing community rallied to raise over $100,000, and RCA now owns the 85-acre property that is home to the Northwest Crags. Access Fund provided RCA with two loans to cover the gap in the purchase price, which RCA will pay back after they transfer the property to White Mountain National Forest.
The Final Frontier is home to the last set of privately owned climbing resources at Rumney--including Northwest Territories, Buffalo Pit, Northwest Passage, Prudential, Asylum, and the western portion of the Black Jack Boulders.
Now that the purchase is complete, RCA will construct a new parking area, toilet, and trail system to the Northwest Crags, alleviating crowding at the main parking area and crags. For the final phase of this project, Access Fund will help RCA transfer the property to the USFS within the next two years for permanent conservation. A huge thanks to everyone who made this victory possible!
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
iffy
Standard Route
GREAT conditions
Dracula
IN & very fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
VALLEY CYCLING:
he local bike nerds were out packing the trails, but the big snow and then the ice-whatever made a pretty big mess of things. I would look for places to ride that are popular hiking trails, like Peaked, or snowmobile trails. I briefly checked out Sawyer River Road on Thursday morning and it looked pretty packed. I'll bet that the road behind Cathedral & Whitehorse (Red's Trail), Bear Notch and Zealand would be rideable. The single track stuff probably not so much. This picture was taken on the Swenson Trail on the East Side behind Walmart on the afternoon of the big snow. It was pretty fun.
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
