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I'd like to be here saying that we've got a 5 star season and that stuff has formed that almost never comes in and that it's the best season in many years. However, while things aren't terrible, they aren't totally great either. Stuff that doesn't get a whole lot of sun, like Standard Route and Dracula, are pretty good, or maybe even great. However, stuff that gets sun, like the Frankenstein Amphitheater, is mediocre at best. Pick your climbs carefully grasshopper...
Speaking of Frankenstein I went up there with Brad today. After taking the pictures we waked in and climbed Standard Route. While the climbing is overall good, it is somewhat mushy in places. Still, it was great to rope up and do it as a multi pitch route for a change. I brought all my fancy new Petal and BD screws and they just run in so sweet. We even brought Brad's new fluorescent orange 70 meter Petzl rope that's super light. I led the first bit up the middle, past the cave and all the way to the upper tier! Then he led all the way to the top. It's so cool to be able to do that. Remember when you had 50 meter ropes and Standard took 4 pitches? I sure do.
Did I mention that we need more cold temps? No? Well we REALLY need some consistent cold temps right now. And with Ice Fest only a couple of weeks away, we've all got our fingers crossed. And maybe even our toes as well. Speaking of Ice Fest...
ICE FEST 2017:
Don't forget that the 2017 Ice fest is coming fast, February 3-4-5. If you've been to one, you know just how great it is. If not, you owe it to yourself to come out and enjoy the festivities. There are clinics, events, presentations, demo gear and just the feeling of being a part of a fantastic celebration of the ice climbing sport that we all love. For the latest information, check out the blog here:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 19, 2026
Just as you would expect following Ice Fest AND a week of truly balmy temps, going to be upper 30's today, the ice can be a mixed bag. I saw someone post about how things are terrible. But digging into it, I realized they were talking about places like the North End that are very well used. It probably gets the most use of all. There are only a few places that have really easy access to moderate climbing and where you can set up a bunch of top-ropes. So that's not unexpected. And of course the climbs that are getting a lot of full sun are getting somewhat punked-out. On my way back from Wolfeboro mid-afternoon a few days ago I took a look at Rainbow Slabs which look as if they are getting pretty funky. And I watched a hunk of the bottom of Way In The Wilderness fall down! IMO it's really the time to start paying attention to what you're walking underneath, any time of the day. Enjoy this weather, but keep paying attention...
Huntington Ravine
numerous options
Repentance
iffy
Standard Route
GREAT conditions
Dracula
IN & very fat
For the full current conditions report, CLICK
HERE
The regular stuff is on NEClimbs.com and our Facebook page.
VALLEY CYCLING:
You can ride almost anywhere right now. Just get a fat tire bike and get out there. Lots of great stuff to ride, I mean it!!!
NOTE - if trails are at all soft and you see any ruts from your tracks, don't ride these trails. Let's keep them in good shape.
Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:
Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.
NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:
Remember - climb hard, ride the steep stuff, stay safe and above all BE NICE,
Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire
It is to conquer fear that one becomes a climber. The climber experiences life to its extreme. A climber is not crazy. He is not out to get himself killed. He knows what life is worth. He is in love with living.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. You can get hurt or even kill yourself. When you go climbing, you do so of your own free will. Everything on this site is to be taken with a grain of salt. Don't blame us if you get up some totally heinous route, in over your head and fall and hurt yourself.
