NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 3:29a on 03/30/20 - Temperature: 46.8 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 46.8 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.978 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 100 %
IceCON 0. Minimal ice available for the hard core and mixed aficionados!
0 out of a possible 5
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March 23, 2017

Hi Folks,

Warm, cold, colder, warm, snow, rain... Rinse Repeat! I've used the term "roller coaster" and that was no idle metaphor. This winter has been entertaining at the very least. The particularly interesting thing is how it really hasn't had an overall negative effect on the 2017 ice season. Even after everything fell down 2 weeks ago, within less than a week it all came back. How about them apples?

Last Sunday I climbed Goofers on Cathedral with Brad. The climbing was good, albeit pretty thin for the first 40-50 feet! I've done it in thinner conditions over the years, but it was amazing that it was as good as it was, considering that both it and Super Goofer fell completely down 10 days ago! I got a good look at Super Goofer and it actually looks MUCH fatter than it did prior to the melt down. Kudos to Keith Sidle and Frank Dahlmeyer for grabbing it the other day. You can see a picture of Keith cruising it on NEClimbs. He's been on fire, as have a bunch of the younger climbers this season.

This week alone I've seen pictures of people climbing the normal stuff plus Float Like A Butterfly, Valhalla, Super Goofer and various things in the Hanging Garden. It's not unusual for interesting things to come in late in the season when we have a serious chill-up, but of course with the longer sunny days it's all ephemeral. And in fact it's a good idea to grab these plums as early as possible in the day, as the ice can change pretty dramatically just over the course of a few hours. A friend was talking about how ice screws and v-threads were melting out in just a few hours at Lake Willoughby, and I even heard a similar report about Standard Route at Frankenstein. RE Willoughby, I'm not sure I would want to be there much after noon at this time of the year! But if you're into it, you should be able to capture some interesting climbs right now if you are available when it's there.

This week may be the optimum time for the elusive 4-sport day. I figure I could get in a run up Willies or Standard, road bike ride from Arethusa up to the top of Crawford Notch & back, XC ski from Crawford Notch out Mt Clinton Road to the Base Road & back and either bouldering or climbing at Humphreys! I've managed 3 in a day many times, but 4 would be great. Now if only I were a kayaker...
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 27, 2020
The ice is done and I am no longer issuing reports. I had someone text me personally asking about the status of ice in the Ravines. Even if I know something, I am no longer going to answer those questions. IMO it is irresponsible to be climbing, other than maybe on a top-rope at this time. I know it's beautiful out there right now. I GET IT! But climbing is generally a group, or at least duo, activity. Everyone touches everything. And if I touch something of yours, that means I have touched everything that you have come in contact with for the past 14 days. I love climbing and the group dynamic as much as anyone, but climbing right now is simply not worth the risk. You simply cannot guarantee that you are 100% safe and put everyone in jeopardy.
Huntington Ravine OUT  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route OUT Click to see route picture.
Dracula OUT Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Earlier in the week it was almost impossible to ride at all, even on the trails. The big snowfall and warm temps just made a mess of the packed out singletrack and snowmobile trails, bringing us right back to early season conditions. I tried to get out several times, but even the trail up to Peaked Mt, which is generally very well packed, was too soft and too narrow. [sigh] I've been too busy to get out the past 2 days, but I understand that the cold temps have firmed things up again. That said, if the weather folks are correct predicting rain on Friday afternoon, all bets are off! Stay tuned...

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Consider what you want to do in relation to what you are capable of doing. Climbing is, above all, a matter of integrity.
Gaston Rebuffat
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