NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 2:29p on 02/28/21 - Temperature: 42.7 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 42.7 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.114 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Falling Slowly - Humidity: 37 %
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
The ACCESS Fund, Protect America's ClimbingNorthEast MountaineeringInternational Mountain EquipmentMount Washington Valley Climbers CooperativeEquinox Guiding Service LLC
S U B S C R I B E
Like reading the White Mountain Report every week? Why not get it delivered to your e-mailbox every Thursday? All you have to do is subscribe. It's fast, painless, and best of all it doesn't cost you a dime!
CLICK HERE...

March 23, 2017

Hi Folks,

Warm, cold, colder, warm, snow, rain... Rinse Repeat! I've used the term "roller coaster" and that was no idle metaphor. This winter has been entertaining at the very least. The particularly interesting thing is how it really hasn't had an overall negative effect on the 2017 ice season. Even after everything fell down 2 weeks ago, within less than a week it all came back. How about them apples?

Last Sunday I climbed Goofers on Cathedral with Brad. The climbing was good, albeit pretty thin for the first 40-50 feet! I've done it in thinner conditions over the years, but it was amazing that it was as good as it was, considering that both it and Super Goofer fell completely down 10 days ago! I got a good look at Super Goofer and it actually looks MUCH fatter than it did prior to the melt down. Kudos to Keith Sidle and Frank Dahlmeyer for grabbing it the other day. You can see a picture of Keith cruising it on NEClimbs. He's been on fire, as have a bunch of the younger climbers this season.

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170323/Goofers_Al.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170323/Goofers_Brad_2.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170323/Goofers_Brad.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170323/SuperGoofer_1.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170323/SuperGoofer.jpg

This week alone I've seen pictures of people climbing the normal stuff plus Float Like A Butterfly, Valhalla, Super Goofer and various things in the Hanging Garden. It's not unusual for interesting things to come in late in the season when we have a serious chill-up, but of course with the longer sunny days it's all ephemeral. And in fact it's a good idea to grab these plums as early as possible in the day, as the ice can change pretty dramatically just over the course of a few hours. A friend was talking about how ice screws and v-threads were melting out in just a few hours at Lake Willoughby, and I even heard a similar report about Standard Route at Frankenstein. RE Willoughby, I'm not sure I would want to be there much after noon at this time of the year! But if you're into it, you should be able to capture some interesting climbs right now if you are available when it's there.

This week may be the optimum time for the elusive 4-sport day. I figure I could get in a run up Willies or Standard, road bike ride from Arethusa up to the top of Crawford Notch & back, XC ski from Crawford Notch out Mt Clinton Road to the Base Road & back and either bouldering or climbing at Humphreys! I've managed 3 in a day many times, but 4 would be great. Now if only I were a kayaker...
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 25, 2021
It really does feel a little more like mid-March than late February right now, tho this really has to do with a couple of sunny days with temps in the 40's. Of course that's not really a bad thing, as long as it stays cool at night and we don't get any rain. But stay tuned... In general tho the ice is in good shape right now, with a few exceptions where the climbs have been in full sun over the past couple of warm days. The thing to be aware of is that there are places where the ice is punky and snowcone-like or has become undermined. But as long as you are paying attention, you'll be OK. Frankly early to mid-March is really my favorite time to climb. There's nothing like those longer days, more moderate temps and plastic ice. And the occasional warm day when you can get out on some warm early-season rock! What's not to like?
Huntington Ravine IN  
Repentance questionable Click to see route picture.
Standard Route IN Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN fat Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170323/AngelCakes.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170323/CathedralLedge.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170323/CauliflowerGully.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170323/Diagonal.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170323/Frankenstein_UpperTier.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170323/Frankenstein.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170323/LHMonkeyWrench.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170323/MeanMistreater.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170323/Repentance_Remission.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170323/Shoestring.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170323/Unicorn.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170323/Willard_UpperTier.jpg
http://www.neclimbs.com/wmr_pix/20170323/Prow_new_anchor.jpg


VALLEY CYCLING:
Earlier in the week it was almost impossible to ride at all, even on the trails. The big snowfall and warm temps just made a mess of the packed out singletrack and snowmobile trails, bringing us right back to early season conditions. I tried to get out several times, but even the trail up to Peaked Mt, which is generally very well packed, was too soft and too narrow. [sigh] I've been too busy to get out the past 2 days, but I understand that the cold temps have firmed things up again. That said, if the weather folks are correct predicting rain on Friday afternoon, all bets are off! Stay tuned...

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

http://www.neclimbs.com/mobile

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

http://www.facebook.com/NEClimbs/

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire


I climb as hard as anyone on earth. I just do it on easier routes.
Mad Dog
NEClimbs on Facebook
NEClimbs on Facebook
RSS Reader Feed
RSS Feed for NEClimbs, the New England rock and ice climbing resource
International Mountain Climbing School
the American Alpine Club
Mooney Mountain Guides
Friends Of The Ledges
Savage Mountain Gear
Sponsors & Donors
View Current List