NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 12:30a on 03/26/19 - Temperature: 24.0 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 24.0 °F - Barometric pressure: 30.014 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 27 %
IceCON 3. Ice generally available in the usual places, many climbs fat.
3 out of a possible 5
New England Mountain GuidesBagels PlusInternational Mountain EquipmentInternational Mountain Climbing Schoolthe American Alpine Club
Like reading the White Mountain Report every week? Why not get it delivered to your e-mailbox every Thursday? All you have to do is subscribe. It's fast, painless, and best of all it doesn't cost you a dime!

March 23, 2017

Hi Folks,

Warm, cold, colder, warm, snow, rain... Rinse Repeat! I've used the term "roller coaster" and that was no idle metaphor. This winter has been entertaining at the very least. The particularly interesting thing is how it really hasn't had an overall negative effect on the 2017 ice season. Even after everything fell down 2 weeks ago, within less than a week it all came back. How about them apples?

Last Sunday I climbed Goofers on Cathedral with Brad. The climbing was good, albeit pretty thin for the first 40-50 feet! I've done it in thinner conditions over the years, but it was amazing that it was as good as it was, considering that both it and Super Goofer fell completely down 10 days ago! I got a good look at Super Goofer and it actually looks MUCH fatter than it did prior to the melt down. Kudos to Keith Sidle and Frank Dahlmeyer for grabbing it the other day. You can see a picture of Keith cruising it on NEClimbs. He's been on fire, as have a bunch of the younger climbers this season.

This week alone I've seen pictures of people climbing the normal stuff plus Float Like A Butterfly, Valhalla, Super Goofer and various things in the Hanging Garden. It's not unusual for interesting things to come in late in the season when we have a serious chill-up, but of course with the longer sunny days it's all ephemeral. And in fact it's a good idea to grab these plums as early as possible in the day, as the ice can change pretty dramatically just over the course of a few hours. A friend was talking about how ice screws and v-threads were melting out in just a few hours at Lake Willoughby, and I even heard a similar report about Standard Route at Frankenstein. RE Willoughby, I'm not sure I would want to be there much after noon at this time of the year! But if you're into it, you should be able to capture some interesting climbs right now if you are available when it's there.

This week may be the optimum time for the elusive 4-sport day. I figure I could get in a run up Willies or Standard, road bike ride from Arethusa up to the top of Crawford Notch & back, XC ski from Crawford Notch out Mt Clinton Road to the Base Road & back and either bouldering or climbing at Humphreys! I've managed 3 in a day many times, but 4 would be great. Now if only I were a kayaker...
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective March 21, 2019
It's been a wonderful ice season, but Spring is officially here folks. Thus the sun is strong so it's warm during the day, but it's cold at night. And of course that means that climbs in the full sun are crap, but anything in the shade can still be good and maybe even building a bit. Sure, Standard Route is still massive, but the ice isn't all that good IMO. I was up there today and thought the ice above the cave was punky! Climbs in the reflector oven that is the Amphitheater are a mess now and honestly in my mind it's not a smart place to be. We're entering a time when the best climbing will be up high in the Ravine. And of course the longer days make it a great time to be up there. From here on out I'm only going to be posting pictures of things I think are in climbable shape, and that's a dwindling supply.
Huntington Ravine IN mostly  
Repentance OUT Click to see route picture.
Standard Route climbable, but getting punky Click to see route picture.
Dracula IN - bring your snorkle Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

Earlier in the week it was almost impossible to ride at all, even on the trails. The big snowfall and warm temps just made a mess of the packed out singletrack and snowmobile trails, bringing us right back to early season conditions. I tried to get out several times, but even the trail up to Peaked Mt, which is generally very well packed, was too soft and too narrow. [sigh] I've been too busy to get out the past 2 days, but I understand that the cold temps have firmed things up again. That said, if the weather folks are correct predicting rain on Friday afternoon, all bets are off! Stay tuned...

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Winter alpinism is hard enough without the added dilemma of free-climbing ethics.
Barry Blanchard
NEClimbs on Facebook
NEClimbs on Facebook
RSS Reader Feed
RSS Feed for NEClimbs, the New England rock and ice climbing resource
The ACCESS Fund, Protect America's Climbing
Julbo: The world needs your vision
Mooney Mountain Guides
Adventure Spirit: Rock+Ice+Alpine Experiences
NorthEast Mountaineering
Hyperlite Mountain Gear
Sponsors & Donors
View Current List