NEClimbs - information for New Hampshire, Maine and Vermont rock and ice climbers
Current conditions in North Conway, NH at 6:29p on 02/16/20 - Temperature: 26.1 °F - Wind speed: 0.0 mph - Wind chill: 26.1 °F - Barometric pressure: 29.931 in - 3 Hour Barometer Trend: Rising Slowly - Humidity: 67 %
IceCON 4. Climbs are IN at the usual places and generally at consensus ratings.
4 out of a possible 5
Mooney Mountain GuidesThe ACCESS Fund, Protect America's Climbingthe American Alpine ClubInternational Mountain EquipmentNorthEast Mountaineering
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May 11, 2017

Hi Folks,

Not a whole heckuva lot going on this week peeps. Trying to avoid listening to the crazy political crap going on, watching the Celtics, no real climbing other than throwing down a quick TR here & there, some bike riding in the woods and on the road up in Randolph, being depressed by the near-constant off and on rain, spending extra time at the gym, trying to get the yard and garden in shape, putting down grass seed, buying plants that I can't put in the ground yet 'cause it's been too chilly, watching it snow up on Mt Washington and having people call to see if the Dike came back in.

Spring Cleaning at the Ledges - It's time for our annual spring clean-up at Cathedral and Whitehorse ledges. We will gather at the kiosk below Cathedral Ledge at 1:00 pm on Saturday, May 20 to divvy up tools and assignments. The goal is to clear the climber trails of leaf litter and other debris from the winter and to pick up any trash that may have melted out of the snow. We will also have an opportunity to do a walk-through of some potential future trail projects with Mike Morin, the Northeast Regional Director of the Access Fund.

After the clean-up we'll have BYO barbecue at the look-out below Cathedral (or gather at Flatbread if the weather or bugs are bad). Please spread the word, bring your friends, and we'll see you there!

Please bring your own work gloves.
Ice Conditions Report:
Selected Ice Conditions effective February 13, 2020
Ice conditions have definitely improved over the past week. It's amazing what a cold snap and a little snow/mix will do for the state of the ice. It's time to move us from the 3 Axes where we've been stuck for a while, to a solid 4 and I'm sure happy about that. Even the Amphitheater at Frankenstein has finally perked up to something like it's normal state, and hopefully will just get better from here on out. Although unfortunately Machine hasn't come in, Dropline has been climbed several times and it's in pretty good shape. I'm on the fence about Repentance. I heard that it was climbed, but other folks have said that even P 1, which often gets done on its own, is crappy. Looking at Goofers, it sure looks much better - thin at the bottom as always, but fatter the higher you go. However there is a lot of snow on the upper ledges and the snowfield below that is problematic! Champney is good, Newfound Lake is OK and the Flume in Franconia has some good ice. You just need to be cautions on the floor. We're in another snow event that's going to last through the day and bring as much as 4-6" more to the Valley, Notches and upper elevations. I'm not going to belabor it here because I've written a section in the main REPORT about the implications, so be aware friends.
Huntington Ravine DANGER  
Repentance OUT  
Standard Route good Click to see route picture.
Dracula good Click to see route picture.
For the full current conditions report, CLICK HERE

I've ridden most of the mountain bike trails in the Valley now, East and West Side and everything is in pretty good shape for this time of year. I had to take my wife's Prius up to Berlin to have the bi-annual maintenance done on Tuesday. The weather looked OK so I took my road bike along so I wouldn't have to sit in the waiting room for 3 hours. As always the plan was to ride up Gorham Hill Road on Rt 2, at the top turn right and ride up Randolph Hill Road, come down, continue to Dolly Copp Road (Pinkham B) and come back down Pinkham Notch back to Gorham. This time I took at right at the sign for Moose Brook State Park just to see where that road went. Turns out it goes up a couple of miles and dead-ends at a preserve. That was pretty neat. I rode back down, turned right and slogged up Gorham Hill and then headed up Randolph Hill. The sky darkened a bit and I could see that it was snowing over in King's Ravine! I rode all the way to the top of Randolph Hill and found that there was now a large parking area with a kiosk and Town Interpretive Trail. It's also the junction of the Peek Path, Mt Crescent Trail, Cook Path and the Head Of Ice Gulch trail. Very cool...

I started cooling off so I headed back down, with a stop at this field for a quick snack and shot of King Ravine. Interestingly enough, it now decided to spit snow and did this all the way back to Gorham Hill! [sigh] Of course it stopped and a bit of sun broke through so I was suckered into heading down towards Dolly Copp. I turned left on to DC and of course now it decided to snow again. Figuring that discretion was the best part of valor, I decided I'd call it a day and headed up the back side of Gorham Hill. While I hadn't seen a single truck coming up the hill, there much have been 10 logging and tanker trucks that passed me going up this side and coming down the other!!!! Go figure...

It really wasn't a bad ride - 21 miles and 1,700' of climbing and the car was ready when I got back.

Well the bugs ARE here in the Valley now. Not biting as best I can tell, but getting annoying. I was out working in the yard yesterday and saw them, and was top-roping this morning and they were definitely being their pest-like selves. I gotta figure that the blood-lust is going to kick in darn soon, so make sure you have the DEET in your back and ready to go! I know I said I hadn't seen any ticks yet but I had one on me day before yesterday. I had been out working in the yard and about an hour after I came inside I felt something on my leg inside my pants. I checked and yup, there was one of the suckers. Take precautions and be sure to check yourself thoroughly whenever you come in from outside.

Mobile Version Of NEClimbs:
Up on one of the Mount Washington Valley's finest crags and want to know what that climb you're looking at is? Or maybe you're on your way up from Boston and want to check out the Ice Report for your upcoming weekend plans. Or more likely, you're at work just want to daydream about your next adventure. Well if you have a smart phone handy, you can get to NEClimbs from anywhere you have cell service. While it doesn't offer every single feature of the site and it's not an "app", in mobile form, it does do a whole lot and is very useful. Here is the live link to the mobile version of NEClimbs:

Check it out and if you have issues on your specific phone, please feel free to let me know.

NEClimbs & White Mountain Report On Facebook:
Join us and LIKE us on Facebook. I'll try and post some interesting pix every Thursday and the latest Ice Report in the season, tho certainly not the whole Report. Here's where you can check it out:

Have fun and climb safe,

Al Hospers
The White Mountain Report
North Conway, New Hampshire

Mountains have a way of dealing with overconfidence.
Hermann Buhl
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